Bonneau du Martray Corton Grand Cru 2016
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
Well, well, well. The Bonneau du Martary red rarely hits the same heights as the white, but that appears to be changing under the new ownership. Yields were around a third of what they are normally, which may have helped to increased levels of concentration, but this is sweeter and way less austere than it normally is, with Chambolle-like finesse, subtle reduction and nuanced tannins. 2022-30.
Barrel Sample: 91-93
Thus, the area devoted exclusively to the development of two Grand Crus: the Corton-Charlemagne, Which is its flagship wine and the Corton.
Its production, resulting from old vines planting carefully selected and controlled performance is the result of work whose quality is recognized by leading critics and connoisseurs. The care and attention that is paid to both the vineyard and the cellar have earned a global reputation and presence on the largest tables.
Prevailing over the charming village of Aloxe, the hill of Corton actually commands the entire appellation. Corton is the only Grand Cru for Pinot Noir in the entire Côte de Beaune. Its Grand Crus red wines can be described simply as “Corton” or Corton hyphenated with other names. These vineyards cover the southeast face of the hill of Corton where soils are rich in red chalk, clay and marl.
Dense and austere when young, the best Corton Pinot Noir will peak in complexity and flavor after about a decade, offering some of the best rewards in cellaring among Côte de Beaune reds. Pommard and Volnay offer similar potential.
The great whites of the village are made within Corton-Charlemagne, a cooler, narrow band of vineyards at the top of the hill that descends west towards the village of Pernand-Vergelesses. Here the thin and white stony soils produce Chardonnay of exceptional character, power and finesse. A minimum of five years in bottle is suggested but some can be amazing long after. Fully half of Aloxe-Corton is considered Grand Cru.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”