Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The red 2014 Ultreia is Mencia from various vineyards in the environment of Ponferrada, where the soils are rich in slate, complemented by some 20% of grapes from the zone of Valtuille. It follows the same modus operandi as all the reds: fermentation with full clusters and indigenous yeasts and aging in used, well-seasoned, neutral barrels for one year. There is a mix of floral, spicy and balsamic aromas, subtle with an earthy background. The palate revealed some earthy tannins and fine, focused and subtle flavors. Some 7,000 bottles produced.
Primarily found in the Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras regions of Spain and in the Dão of Portugal (where it is called Jaen), Mencia is an early ripening, low acid grape that can produce wines of great concentration, complexity and ageability. And yet Mencia once suffered from a poor reputation and deemed capable of producing simple and light red wines. Post-phylloxera growers would grow this variety on low, fertile plains, which produced high yields and uncomplicated finished wines. Somm Secret—The recent rediscovery of the ancient, abandoned vines planted on rugged hillsides of deep schist has unveiled the potential of Mencia and added discredit to its old reputation.
One of the few northwestern Spanish regions with a focus on a red variety, Bierzo, part of Castilla y León, is home to the flowery and fruity Mencia grape. Mencia produces balanced and bright red wines full of strawberry, raspberry, pomegranate, baking spice, pepper and black licorice. The well-drained soils of Bierzo are slate and granite.