Bodegas Mauro 2018
Deepness and aromatic purity in a wine of extreme finesse and freshness. Broad, delectable, with a powerful but flexible tannic structure.
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
I tasted two vintages of some of the wines, which makes for a very interesting comparison of the character of each year. The 2018 Mauro, from a cool and rainy year, is fresher than the 2019 I tasted next to it. It's a blend of 90% Tinto Fino or Tempranillo and 5% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from certified organic vineyards, and it fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and matured in French and American oak barrels and foudres for some 15 months. It's serious and a bit closed, going in a way to the style of the Mauro from yesteryear, perhaps a little more floral and aromatic. It feels younger and less developed than the 2019. It's powerful and has finesse and balance, with depth and complexity.
Inky ruby. Primary, mineral-tinged black and blue fruits, potpourri, oak spices and woodsmoke on the highly perfumed nose. Sweet, deeply concentrated boysenberry, licorice and cherry cola flavors fan out steadily on the palate, picking up spiciness and a touch of candied flowers on the back half. Broad and youthfully chewy in texture. Finishes with excellent length and dusty tannins contributing shape and closing grip.
Based largely on Tempranillo (there are 10% other red varieties), the 2018 Mauro has a solid bouquet of mulled cherry and darker currants as well as plenty of dusty earth, baking spices, and vanilla. Medium-bodied, nicely textured, and balanced, it's certainly an outstanding wine that I suspect will evolve gracefully for a decade.
Bodegas Mauro was established in 1980 by Mariano García ( Vega Sicilia’s 40 year winemaker) in homage to his father. Enclaved halfway along the River Duero in the Castilian town of Tudela, the Bodegas Mauro philosophy from the very beginning has been based on producing age-worthy wines that are deeply rooted in the territory.
Bodegas Mauro was the García family’s first of the current trilogy of wineries. It was followed by San Román Bodegas y Viñedos founded in 1997, under the denomination of origin Toro, and completed with Garmón Continental, a project that began in 2014, in the heart of the Ribera del Duero region and with a winery in Olivares de Duero. Bodegas Mauro possess 90 hectares of vineyards in Tudela de Duero, of mainly the Tempranillo variety which is grown alongside the Syrah grape, which adds freshness and complexity. The new Cabernet Sauvignon plantings at more than 800 metres, guarantee a touch of acidity.
The plants are trained on bush vines on calcareous clay soil which is light, easy-to-work and filtering with a balanced texture and high pH. With very little water due to the immense evaporation and low rainfall, the vines suffer from major hydric stress, yet this is limited by good deep root development which allows them access to water reserves in the subsoil.
Spanish red wine is known for being bold, heady, rustic and age-worthy, Spain is truly a one-of-a-kind wine-producing nation. A great majority of the country is hot, arid and drought-ridden, and since irrigation has only been recently introduced and (controversially) accepted, viticulture has sustained—and flourished—only through a great understanding of Spain’s particular conditions. Large spacing between vines allows each enough resources to survive and as a result, the country has the most acreage under vine compared to any other country, but is usually third in production.
Of the Spanish red wines, the most planted and respected grape variety is Tempranillo, the star of Spain’s Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions. Priorat specializes in bold red blends, Jumilla has gained global recognition for its single varietal Monastrell and Utiel-Requena has garnered recent attention for its reds made of Bobal.