Winemaker Notes
Birichino's two-word signifier for Lilo when describing it is "Pretty & Perfumed". One should not infer from "Pretty & Perfumed" however that Lilo is ever overtly fruity. It is not. Rather, the perfume recalls woodsy incense (even in the absence of new barrels as is the case here) and mountain herbs.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Focused acidity and crunchy minerality work hand in hand with very pretty cherry and rose petal notes. This is a layered wine, with raspberries, laurel and a hint of salinity in the finish. Charm and energy in equal measure.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From a steep, south-facing hillside near Trout Gulch Vineyard in Aptos, the 2022 Pinot Noir Lilo Vineyard is a beautiful example of an undersung vineyard source. It was fermented with 20% whole clusters and aged in three- to four-year-old barrels for 14 months. Lush yet composed aromas of dark fruit, conifers and allspice lead to a seamless and refined palate. The finish perfectly balances ripe fruit, succulent acidity and subtle, drying tannins, making this an impressively well-made Pinot Noir, much less at this price point.
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Vinous
The 2022 Pinot Noir Lilo Vineyard is a very pretty, classically built wine displaying dark berry fruit, rose, lavender, sandalwood and pomegranate scents. I like the breadth and structure here-this has a supple roundness, but it still manages to drive forward with energy and grip.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
A rugged and topographically diverse cool-climate appellation with a rich history, the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA stretches from Half Moon Bay, just south of San Francisco, to the northern border of Monterey County. Elevations range from 800 feet to upwards of 3,000 and microclimates vary substantially depending on which side of the mountains the vineyards lie; cool ocean winds and fog play an important role here. This can be a challenging region in which to grow grapes, but it is well worth the effort. Santa Cruz Mountains wines are noted for balanced acidity levels, often showing great aging potential. Wine has been made here since the 1800s, most notably from the legendary Ridge Vineyards, whose Monte Bello vineyard garners international admiration.
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are the stars of this region, while Merlot and Zinfandel also perform quite well. Organic and sustainable vineyard practices are becoming increasingly common.