Winemaker Notes
As in 2013, 2017 and 2020, a modest level of botrytis formed in Jurassic Park, a most fortuitous occurrence, as the pourriture noble or noble rot, seems to catalyze the expression of all of the myriad elements of Chenin Blanc. More than a touch of the slightly severe, saline, sea air quality the winery last saw in 2015, propels the 2021 in a completely unexpected direction, and they have elected this year to ferment the wine completely dry. Not to name drop, and they'd would never suggest the Jurassic Park Chenin could double for a wine from the central Loire (nor should it, nor need it), but if one were to draw some sort of analogy, they might say there is some of the flowers and honey and Granny Smith apple from a pretty vintage of Vouvray, alongside a very healthy dose of wooliness, brimstone, oyster shell and ocean air (that odd descriptor again!?!?) one might associate with the larger scaled wines of Savennières.
Unquestionably one of the most diverse grape varieties, Chenin Blanc can do it all. It shines in every style from bone dry to unctuously sweet, oaked or unoaked, still or sparkling and even as the base for fortified wines and spirits. Perhaps Chenin Blanc’s greatest asset is its ever-present acidity, maintained even under warm growing conditions. Somm Secret—Landing in South Africa in the mid 1800s, today the country has double the acreage of Chenin Blanc planted compared to France. There is also a new wave of dedicated producers committed to restoring old Chenin vines.
Ranging from cool and foggy in the west to warm and dry in the east, the Santa Ynez Valley is a climatically diverse growing area. The most expansive AVA within the larger Santa Barbara County region, Santa Ynez is also home to a wide variety of soil types and geographical features. The appellation is further divided into four distinct sub-AVAs—Sta. Rita Hills, Ballard Canyon, Los Olivos District and Happy Canyon—each with its own defining characteristics.
A wide selection of grapes is planted here—more than sixty different varieties, and counting. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dominate in the chilly west, while Zinfandel, Rhône blends, and Bordeaux blends rule the arid east. Syrah is successful at both ends of the valley, with a lean and peppery, Old-World sensibility closer to the coast and lush berry fruit further inland.