Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Ovilos is an equal blend of Semillon and Assyrtiko aged for five months in French barriques (one-third each of new, second and third use). It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. Grassy and green, as tends to be the case, this adds fine acidity and a fair bit of power to the equation. It's tense on the finish and solid in the mid-palate, but it's also precise, graceful and beautifully constructed. This bottling is on a roll these days, making it one of Greece's more interesting whites outside of Santorini and Mantinia. This should age for at least a decade from the vintage date—but those are things I always like to take in stages. It certainly drinks well now.
There are hundreds of white grape varieties grown throughout the world. Some are indigenous specialties capable of producing excellent single varietal wines. Each has its own distinct viticultural characteristics, as well as aroma and flavor profiles.
A picturesque Mediterranean nation with a rich wine culture dating back to ancient times, Greece has so much more to offer than just retsina. Between the mainland and the country’s many islands, a wealth of Greek wine styles exists, made mostly from Greece’s plentiful indigenous varieties. After centuries of adversity after Ottoman rule, the modern Greek wine industry took off in the late 20th century with an influx of newly trained winemakers and investments in winemaking technology.
The climate—generally hot Mediterranean—can vary a bit with latitude and elevation, and is mostly moderated by cool maritime breezes. Drought can be an issue for Greek wine during the long, dry summers, sometimes necessitating irrigation.
Over 300 indigenous grapes have been identified throughout Greece, and though not all of them are suitable for wine production, future decades will likely see a significant revival and refinement of many of these native Greek wine varieties. Assyrtiko, the crisp, saline Greek wine variety of the island of Santorini, is one of the most important and popular white wine varieties, alongside Roditis, Robola, Moschofilero, and Malagousia. Muscat is also widely grown for both sweet and dry wines. Prominent red wine varieties include full-bodied and fruity Agiorghitiko, native to Nemea; Macedonia’s savory, tannic Xinomavro; and Mavrodaphne, used commonly to produce a Port-like fortified wine in the Peloponnese.