Winemaker Notes
#42 Jeb Dunnuck Top 100 of 2025
"Testamatta" – "crazy-head" in Italian - is the best word to describe Bibi Graetz: a positive, creative and passionate person. Testamatta wine expresses the purity, minerality and transparency of Sangiovese from old vines on the top of the hills characterized by soils rich of stones. A Supertuscan made with 100% Sangiovese, result of the combination of tradition and creativity.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Fabulous aromas of strawberries, orange zest and orange blossom. So pure on the nose. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with intense linear tannins that are ultra-fine in texture. It's fresh and salty with a brightness and focus. Minerally and crisp. pH is 3.4 highlighting the strength of the acidity. Crunchy. Salty. So delicious now but this will age incredibly well.
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2021 Testamatta is entirely Sangiovese from 35- to 50-year-old vines and translates to "crazy-head." It offers a jeweled ruby color and has a lovely bouquet on opening, with pure notes of kirsch, blood orange, dusty earth, coriander, and rose petals. It continues to the palate with a seamless feel, revealing a medium-bodied frame with fine tannins, a refreshingly weightless feel, and an elegantly long and balanced finish. Graceful and pure throughout, this lovely wine will benefit from cellaring as it matures to reveal its more tertiary and savory tones, although it sure is beautiful now.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From a vintage I really love comes the Bibi Graetz 2021 Testamatta. This wine has dark fruit, cherry, powdered chocolate and chalky mineral. This vintage represents a turning point for this eccentric vintner who decided to change styles and focus on the red fruits and high notes. Nonetheless, this wine delivers good freshness and balance, and I like it better than the 2020 vintage that Bibi himself prefers. To me, the 2021 has more vertical freshness.
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Wine Enthusiast
The nose starts light and sweet, with aromas of vanilla and cedar, before getting richer with notes of cherries and candied orange. An undertone of fresh soil blooms on the palate, beneath a starburst of cherries and strawberries. Silky tannins invite you in now, while lively acid suggests you should also return in a few years for more fun.
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Wine Spectator
A pure, resonant red, with strawberry, cherry, rose, wild thyme, black pepper and mineral aromas and flavors. Though taut and linear now, this offers a center of ripe fruit, terrific balance and a long aftertaste of fruit, herb and mineral notes. Drink now through 2035. 1,833 cases made.
Legendary in Italy for its Renaissance art and striking landscape, Tuscany is also home to many of the country’s best red wines. Sangiovese reigns supreme here, as either the single varietal, or a dominant player, in almost all of Tuscany’s best.
A remarkable Chianti, named for its region of origin, will have a bright acidity, supple tannins and plenty of cherry fruit character. From the hills and valleys surrounding the medieval village of Montalcino, come the distinguished and age-worthy wines based on Brunello (Sangiovese). Earning global acclaim since the 1970s, the Tuscan Blends are composed solely of international grape varieties or a mix of international and Sangiovese. The wine called Vine Nobile di Montepulciano, composed of Prognolo Gentile (Sangiovese) and is recognized both for finesse and power.