Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux 2019
This cuvée features old Cabernet Franc vines in the lieu-dit Les Grézeaux, a gravelly parcel over clay-silica subsoil. It consistently shows concentration and dense structure, all while remaining smooth and accessible. Les Grézeaux also has delightful earthy nuances like herbal and peppery notes, which tend to gain prominence with age, as additional complexities emerge over five, ten, or fifteen years in bottle.
A textbook Chinon like this merits simple, rustic cuisine such as roast game, baked potatoes, and sautéed porcini mushrooms.
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
From a vineyard in the alluvial gravels close to the Vienne river, this wine ages in cement vats before bottling. Musky at first, its arresting fruit and acidity will hold your attention long enough to notice the complexity, its savory varietal notes verging on pu-erh tea, framed by soft, pine-scented tannins. The powerful structure shows the heat of the vintage, but the flavors show some restraint. It starts to come together quickly, and should hold its aromas for years to come. It has an endearing cabernet franc foxiness, to bring to your Jersey uncle’s backyard, for his braccioli.
Bernard Baudry is unquestionably one of Chinon’s most outstanding producers. Not only does he have the talent to make delicious and consistent wines, vintage to vintage, but he is also fortunate to have vineyard land that showcases the varied soil types of the appellation. After completing his viticultural studies in Beaune, Bernard returned to the Loire Valley and purchased his first two hectares of land in Cravant-les-Coteaux, a village from which almost half of the production of A.O.C. Chinon is sourced. Over the years, the domaine has grown to 25 hectares and Bernard’s son, Matthieu, has joined the family domaine. The Baudrys are staunch traditionalists, and you would have a hard time finding a Chinon more classic than theirs.
An important red wine appellation in the Touraine district of the Loire, Chinon produces fanciful, light-bodied reds from the Cabernet Franc grape. Chinon also makes charming rosés from the same grape as well as white wines from Chenin blanc. But the reds give the area its fame. Often scented with fresh herbs, black tea and violets, Chinon reds show a lovely combination of fruit and acidity. However, styles have become more concentrated and ripe in recent years from improvements in vineyard management. Modern methods include planting grass between vineyard rows, using higher trellises and deleafing to increase sunlight to berries and therefore improve ripening. Even still, red Chinon is intended to be a light to medium bodied, refreshing wine to be enjoyed in its youth.
Fuller-bodied Chinons come from vineyard sites on the clay and tuffeau limestone slopes, usually from the southern exposed slopes of Cravant-les-Coteaux, and the plateau above Beaumont. Lighter styled wines come from the sand and gravel vineyards near the Loire or Vienne Rivers with the most refined examples coming from the area around Panzoult
Cabernet Franc, a proud parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, is the subtler and more delicate of the Cabernets. Today Cabernet Franc produces outstanding single varietal wines across the wine-producing world. Somm Secret—One of California's best-kept secrets is the Happy Canyon appellation of Santa Barbara. Here Cabernet Franc shines as a single varietal wine or in blends, expressing sumptuous fruit, savory aromas and polished tannins.