Barboursville Octagon 2014

The intense floral and blackberry aromas leap out of the glass at you and there's a hint of spice from the oak, too. Not only does this have great concentration of fruit and really fine tannins, but they already mesh beautifully and that gives this Bordeaux blend stunning balance and purity of flavor. Probably the finest red ever made in modern Virginia! Maybe as much as two decades of ageing potential.

This focused red offers crisp black cherry and currant flavors balanced by savory notes of tobacco, smoke and cedar. Light, firm tannins underpin the supple texture, while crisp acidity keeps this lively and fresh. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2022.

The 2014 Octagon is 56% Merlot, with 23% Petit Verdot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon; it is aged for 12 months in French oak (40% new, the rest second-use). Gloriously fruity on the nose, this just smelled exciting from the get-go. It wasn't, in fact, quite as exciting on the palate as it seemed on first smell, but it is still pretty good. The wave of fresh fruit dissolves into a more nuanced whole with time, the grapes tending to show more herbal notes over time. Round, complete and beautifully balanced, this should steadily evolve and become more complex in the cellar. It is curiously approachable just now, but it should still improve over the next few years, too. Bottled in early August, 2016, this will not be released until October 2017, so consider this to be a preview and a first look. Hopefully, we'll see it again. Frankly, it could've been released now. It is pretty accessible.