Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Jasper Morris
There are three plots of 70 to 120 year-old vines, the oldest in En Champs, which make up the Très Vieilles Vignes cuvée. 50% whole bunch vinification of the pedicel variety. Mid purple, with a lifted bouquet, very floral on the nose, ahead of the fruit. Thee is a saline note as well, adding complexity, and a touch of liquorice. This wine will take tiem to come together but will be very rewarding. When it does. Drink from 2030-2037.
Barrel Sample: 91-94 -
Vinous
The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes comes from 80 to 100-year-old vines from three lieux-dits, including 60% whole bunches with the main stem removed manually and 30% new oak. The very well-defined nose offers lavender-tinged black fruit, potpourri and white pepper. The palate is well-defined with crisp tannins, a mélange of red and black fruit and a healthy sprinkling of white pepper on the finish. Excellent.
Barrel Sample: 91-93
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
This small village is home to the Grands Crus in the farthest northerly stretches of Côte de Nuits and is famous for some of the deepest and firmest Burgundian Pinot Noir.
Gevrey boasts nine Grands Crus, the best of which are arguably Le Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. As with all of the fragmented vineyards of Burgundy, it isn’t easy to differentiate between the two, which are situated adjacent with Clos de Bèze slightly further up the hill than Le Chambertin. Clos de Bèze has a shallower soil and if you’re really counting, may produce wines less intense but more likely to charm. Some compare Le Chambertin in both power and plentitude only to the prized Romanée-Conti Grand Cru farther south in Vosne-Romanée.
Two other Grands Crus vineyards, Mazis-Chambertin (also written Mazy-) and Latricières-Chambertin command almost as much regard as Le Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. The upper part of Mazy, called Les Mazis Haut is the best and Latricières-Chambertin offers an abundance of juicy fruit and a silky texture in the warmer vintages.
Other Grands Crus are Ruchottes-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Mazoyères-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin and Chapelle-Chambertin.
The most respected Pinot Noir wines from Gevrey-Chambertin are robust and powerful but at the same time, velvety and expressive: black fruit, black liquorice and chocolate come into play. After some time in the bottle, the wines are harmonious with bright and sometimes candied fruit, and aromas of musk, truffle and forest floor. These have staying power.