Winemaker Notes
Blend: 100% Xinomavro
Professional Ratings
-
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
This 2010 Xinomavro Hedgehog Vineyard was aged for 12 months in French oak and comes in at 13.5% alcohol. It is revisited for a checkup this issue. With another eight months or so in the bottle, this has simply blossomed. It seems to have put on weight as it now feels fuller in the mouth and shows beautifully. All I can say is, the "wake up" here has been notable. The initial impression was perfect in one respect, however: it maintains a wonderfully elegant demeanor. Impeccably balanced, with not a hair out of place, it still manages to show nice structure, tightening noticeably on the finish, while always seeming restrained. The caressing texture makes it very sensual. This is a somewhat gentler view of Xinomavro, but it sacrifices little while delivering fine flavor. It's quite a bargain, too.
Native to Greece, Xinomavro is widely regarded the finest red wine of the country. Its name literally means “acid black”, and attains fullest potential in the country’s northwest region of Naoussa. These single varietal bottlings of Xinomavro (blending is not allowed here) are often compared to the fine Barolos of Italy for their structure, finesse and age-worthiness. While its vines are fickle and blue-black grapes grow in tight clusters, similar to Nebbiolo, Xinomavro actually appears unrelated. Somm Secret—The use of French oak can help tame Xinomavro but too much can overwhelm it. Some eschew oak entirely during winemaking; other producers use locally-grown walnut.
A picturesque Mediterranean nation with a rich wine culture dating back to ancient times, Greece has so much more to offer than just retsina. Between the mainland and the country’s many islands, a wealth of Greek wine styles exists, made mostly from Greece’s plentiful indigenous varieties. After centuries of adversity after Ottoman rule, the modern Greek wine industry took off in the late 20th century with an influx of newly trained winemakers and investments in winemaking technology.
The climate—generally hot Mediterranean—can vary a bit with latitude and elevation, and is mostly moderated by cool maritime breezes. Drought can be an issue for Greek wine during the long, dry summers, sometimes necessitating irrigation.
Over 300 indigenous grapes have been identified throughout Greece, and though not all of them are suitable for wine production, future decades will likely see a significant revival and refinement of many of these native Greek wine varieties. Assyrtiko, the crisp, saline Greek wine variety of the island of Santorini, is one of the most important and popular white wine varieties, alongside Roditis, Robola, Moschofilero, and Malagousia. Muscat is also widely grown for both sweet and dry wines. Prominent red wine varieties include full-bodied and fruity Agiorghitiko, native to Nemea; Macedonia’s savory, tannic Xinomavro; and Mavrodaphne, used commonly to produce a Port-like fortified wine in the Peloponnese.