Winemaker Notes
The nose is vivid and pure, yet near impossible to pin down. Is that grapefruit swirling in the air? Or pear? The palate is a long, bristling arc of sour fruit and citrus oil; the finish lingers on in a steady hum.
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
Blind tasted by Christian Eedes(at South Africa, 15 Feb 2021) Sourced from celebrated grape-grower Basie van Lill’s property, planted in 1981 and 1984. Light reduction before citrus, peach and earthiness as well as yeasty complexity on the nose. The palate, meanwhile, has excellent fruit concentration matched by driving acidity before a finish that is long and pithy. Rich but balanced.
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Vinous
The 2019 Magnetic North is matured in cement eggs and used oak barrels. It has a lovely bouquet of peach skin, melted candle wax and light orange blossom scents that is simply irresistible. The aromatics are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied and full of tension and energy, with a fine bead of acidity and a superb tensile, citric attack on the finish. A subtle egg yolk note lingers on the aftertaste, possibly deriving from the 3.5gm/L residual sugar. Superb. - NM
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Wine Spectator
A rich and creamy, medium- to full-bodied white, but with a spine of vivid acidity keeping this fresh and racy, enlivening flavors of dried apricot, kumquat, persimmon and chamomile. Zips along to the lightly toasty finish, with hints of salted nut and butter.
Unquestionably one of the most diverse grape varieties, Chenin Blanc can do it all. It shines in every style from bone dry to unctuously sweet, oaked or unoaked, still or sparkling and even as the base for fortified wines and spirits. Perhaps Chenin Blanc’s greatest asset is its ever-present acidity, maintained even under warm growing conditions. Somm Secret—Landing in South Africa in the mid 1800s, today the country has double the acreage of Chenin Blanc planted compared to France. There is also a new wave of dedicated producers committed to restoring old Chenin vines.
With an important wine renaissance in full swing, impressive red and white bargains abound in South Africa. The country has a particularly long and rich history with winemaking, especially considering its status as part of the “New World.” In the mid-17th century, the lusciously sweet dessert wines of Constantia were highly prized by the European aristocracy. Since then, the South African wine industry has experienced some setbacks due to the phylloxera infestation of the late 1800s and political difficulties throughout the following century.
Today, however, South Africa is increasingly responsible for high-demand, high-quality wines—a blessing to put the country back on the international wine map. Wine production is mainly situated around Cape Town, where the climate is generally warm to hot. But the Benguela Current from Antarctica provides brisk ocean breezes necessary for steady ripening of grapes. Similarly, cooler, high-elevation vineyard sites throughout South Africa offer similar, favorable growing conditions.
South Africa’s wine zones are divided into region, then smaller districts and finally wards, but the country’s wine styles are differentiated more by grape variety than by region. Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, is the country’s “signature” grape, responsible for red-fruit-driven, spicy, earthy reds. When Pinotage is blended with other red varieties, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah or Pinot Noir (all commonly vinified alone as well), it is often labeled as a “Cape Blend.” Chenin Blanc (locally known as “Steen”) dominates white wine production, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc following close behind.