Alessandro & Gian Natale Fantino Cascina Dardi Bussia Barolo 2014
Barolos from Bussia tend to have deep color and rich fruit and while they don’t lack the classic tannic structure of Nebbiolo from this part of the world, they are not nearly as hard as the Barolos from the southside of Monforte or from Serralunga. This fact does not preclude the Fantino Baroli from aging but makes them delightfully approachable relatively young. The Fantinos are also blessed with some of the oldest vines in the entire Barolo zone, thanks to the fastidious care given to them by Alessandro and Gian Natale. Planted in 1946 and 1947 and pruned in an old style that is very labor intensive, they produce grapes that would be the envy of any Barolista.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Here's a wine with a tempered personality that grows in intensity with each swirl of the glass. The 2014 Barolo Bussia Cascina Dardi, with a few more of those swirls, reveals a gorgeous identity. It goes from wallflower to prima ballerina with just a few swift and decisive moves. Wild berries, blue flowers, licorice and crushed stones are suddenly released. The wine is a delight to drink, thanks to the pristine and elegant quality of the bouquet. The finish is smooth and silky with intact primary fruit.
Two brothers, Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino, run this family estate in Monforte d’Alba. Alessandro managed the vineyards and served as the enologist at Cantina Bartolo Mascarello for 20 years, from 1978 to 1997. The brothers farm eight hectares in the heart of the historic Bussia cru, one of Barolo’s most famous areas for producing wines of great longevity and finesse. The Fantino holdings are concentrated exclusively in the “Dardi” section of Bussia. The brothers also produce a Barbera d’Alba from these ancient vines in Dardi, and a “Rosso dei Dardi” from younger vine Nebbiolo. They are also specialists with several traditional Piemontese wines that are mostly disappearing: Nebbiolo Passito and Barolo Chinato.