Adega Eidos Veigas de Padrinan Albarino 2008
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2008 Veiga de Padrinan was sourced from ungrafted 80+-year-old vines. It is a bit more terroir-driven with an intense mineral element, earth notes, lemon, and floral rudiments. On the palate it is impeccably balanced, concentrated, and lengthy. It should drink well for several more years.
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Wine & Spirits
Made from older vines (40 to 80 years old) than the Eidos de Padriñán recommended above, this is more ambitious and powerful. The tension between its lime-citrus fruit and briny mineral components comes across as volatility, the unctuous fruit and tart acidity not completely integrated. It needs time to meld or something substantial to match, like grilled merluza (hake).
Adega Eidos produces Albariño from grapes grown exclusively in and among the gardens of Sanxenxo in the parish of Padriñán, at the southern extreme of Rías Baixas' Val do Salnés. Padriñán encompasses a unique south-facing slope overlooking the sea, its perfect exposure enhanced by reflection from the water and a wind-sheltering stand of eucalyptus at the top of the slope. The "Eidos" (garden arbors) in Sanxenxo are traditionally trained and more often than not ungrafted and over 50 years of age. One hundred such parcels totaling 20 acres are owned or controlled by Adega Eidos. Since 2003, winemaking has taken place in a winemaking facility of efficient and modern design. Selected bunches are brought the short distance in small crates, then subjected to further sorting before destemming, crushing and cold maceration. Natural yeasts are encouraged under temperature control to achieve long fermentations and natural clarification and the wines left on their fine lees until bottling.
Bright and aromatic with distinctive floral and fruity characteristics, Albariño has enjoyed a surge in popularity and an increase in plantings over the last couple of decades. Thick skins allow it to withstand the humid conditions of its homeland, Rías Baixas, Spain, free of malady, and produce a weighty but fresh white. Somm Secret—Albariño claims dual citizenship in Spain and Portugal. Under the name Alvarinho, it thrives in Portugal’s northwestern Vinho Verde region, which predictably, borders part of Spain’s Rías Baixas.
Named after the rías, or estuarine inlets, that flow as far as 20 miles inland, Rías Baixas is an Atlantic coastal region with a cool and wet maritime climate. The entire region claims soil based on granite bedrock, but the inlets create five subregions of slightly different growing environments for its prized white grape, Albariño.
Val do Salnés on the west coast is said to be the birthplace of Albariño; it is the coolest and wettest of all of the regions. Having been named as the original subregion, today it has the most area under vine and largest number of wineries.
Ribeira do Ulla in the north and inland along the Ulla River is the newest to be included. It is actually the birthplace of the Padrón pepper!
Soutomaior is the smallest region and is tucked up in the hills at the end of the inlet called Ria de Vigo. Its soils are light and sandy over granite.
O Rosal and Condado do Tea are the farthest south in Rías Baixas and their vineyards actually cover the northern slopes of the Miño River, facing the Vinho Verde region in Portugal on its southern bank.
Albariño gives this region its fame and covers 90% of the area under vine. Caiño blanco, Treixadura and Loureira as well as occasionally Torrontés and Godello are permitted in small amounts in blends with Albariño. Red grapes are not very popular but Mencía, Espadeiro and Caiño Tinto are permitted and grown.