Walter Hansel The Three Rows Pinot Noir 2004
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Readers looking for a more meaty, herbal effort should check out the dark ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Three Rows. It is the most elegant and lighter-styled as well as the most herbaceous Pinot of this group, offering copious quantities of sweet and sour cherries. Kudos to Stephen Hansel for keeping prices so realistic.
While the Russian River Valley is a large appellation with multiple climate zones and soil types, it is best known for cool-climate varieties, with Pinot Noir as the most celebrated. The grapes benefit from a reliable late afternoon flow of Pacific Ocean fog through the Petaluma Gap and along the Russian River Valley that ensures slow and steady ripening and the preservation of grape acidity. Today many of California’s most highly regarded Pinot Noir vineyards are in the Russian River Valley, along with its sub-appellation, Green Valley.
Historically Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs had bright red fruit and delicate earthy, mineral notes. But changes in viticultural and winemaking practices have led to stylistic changes in some of the region’s wines. Adjustments to canopy management, among other techniques, have resulted in riper fruit and bolder wines as well. These show flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cola, spice and darker, loamy earth tones, accenting traditional Pinot Noir notes of strawberry, raspberry and light cherry.