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This is unevolved, revealing hints of floral and black currant aromas and flavors, but
also yeast and carbonic gas elements. Yet it’s vibrant and juicy, with a lingering
#79 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2008
This is unevolved, revealing hints of floral and black currant aromas and flavors, but also yeast and carbonic gas elements. Yet it’s vibrant and juicy, with a lingering finish.
A 2007 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett represents the latest in a long-running series of impressive Kesselstatt renditions of this famous site. Scents of pink grapefruit and black currant could be from Scheurebe. A refreshing, subtly oily palate displays well-judged and unobtrusive sweetness that simply places the fruit in high relief, while making possible a wine of low alcohol and delicacy. This might not be the most complex expression of its site, but there will be more nuances in time; and it certainly will reward 15 or more years of cellaring, especially for those who, like me, prefer Mosel Kabinett after any extraneous sweetness has backed off.
One of the world’s most classic and popular styles of red wine, Bordeaux-inspired blends have spread from their homeland in France to nearly every corner of the New World, especially in California, Washington, and Australia. Typically based on either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot and supported by Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and/or Petit Verdot, these are sometimes referred to in the US as “Meritage” blends. In Bordeaux itself, Cabernet Sauvignon dominates in wines from the Left Bank of the Gironde river, while the Right Bank focuses on Merlot. Often, blends from outside the region are classified as being inspired by one or the other.
In the Glass
Cabernet-based, Left-Bank-styled wines are typically more tannic and structured, while Merlot-based wines modeled after the Right Bank are softer and suppler. Cabernet Franc can add herbal notes, while Malbec and Petit Verdot contribute color and structure. Wines from Bordeaux can be bold and fruit-forward or restrained and earthy, while New World facsimiles tend to emulate the former style. In general, Bordeaux red blends can have aromas and flavors of black currant, cedar, plum, graphite, and violet, with more red fruit flavors when Merlot makes up a high proportion of the blend.
Since Bordeaux red blends are often quite structured and tannic, they pair best with hearty, flavorful, and fatty meat dishes. Any type of steak makes for a classic pairing. Equally welcome with these wines would be beef brisket, pot roast, braised lamb, or smoked duck.
While the region of Bordeaux is limited to a select few approved grape varieties, the New World is free to experiment. Bordeaux blends in California may include Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, or virtually any other grape deemed worthy by the winemaker. In Australia, Shiraz is a common component.