Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The scarcely noticeable (as such) 15 grams of residual sweetness in Ratzenberger’s 2009 Steeger St. Jost Kabinett halbtrocken beautifully brings out this wine’s inherent apricot and winter squash elements while setting off its herbal pungency; fruit pit piquancy; saline, crustacean shell reduction savor; and ineffable, somehow ore-like mineral depth. At the same time, 11% alcohol serves for a sense of levity. Subtly floral scents; emerging underlying almond oil; and subtle creaminess add allure, while the sheer juiciness and salinity here are irresistibly enticing of saliva as well as of each next sip. Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. claims this was “more euphoric” prior to its June bottling, and if that points toward the future of this already amazing “little” wine and sensational value, then watch out! It ought to be worth pursuing not just in the marketplace, but over the next 15 or more years in bottle.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
One of Germany’s smallest regions on the Rhine River, Mittelrhein’s steep and well-drained, heat-absorbing slate and quartzite vineyards are perfect for Riesling. Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) accounts for about 10% of total vineyard acreage.