Paolo Scavino Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata Riserva 2004
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
This is a wonderful set of new wines from Enrico Scavino and his daughters Enrica and Elisa. The dark, almost impenetrable color of the 1990s is gone and these Barolos now look like Barolos. To be sure, Scavino’s wines are still characterized by a plushness and opulence of fruit that sets them apart. Yet all of these 2006 Barolos reveal exceptional length, beautifully balanced tannins and gorgeous overall harmony. They should be on anyone’s short list of must-have wines. The Barolos are fermented in stainless steel, undergo malolactic fermentation in French oak and are subsequently aged for a year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask.
Paolo Scavino winery was founded in 1921 in Castiglione Falletto from Lorenzo Scavino and his son Paolo. Enrico Scavino together with the daughters Enrica and Elisa, fourth generation, run the family Estate. Through 70 years of work, Enrico Scavino has researched and purchased some of the most historic vineyards cultivated with Nebbiolo for Barolo to experience and show the uniqueness of each site.
The Scavino family owns 30 hectares entirely in the Barolo area and vinifies grapes from their own vineyards located in the villages of Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, La Morra, Novello, Serralunga d’Alba, Verduno, Roddi and Monforte d’Alba.
The approach to both viticulture and winemaking is scrupulous, respectful and is aimed at preserving and therefore enhancing the expression and peculiarities of each vineyard in the wines.
The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo wine region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo wine, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.
There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.
On the eastern side of the Barolo wine region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soil types.
The best Barolo wines need 10-15 years before they are ready to drink, and can further age for several decades.
Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.