Winemaker Notes
The Marco Felluga family traces its wine-industry lineage to the late 1800s, when Ilaria Felluga's great-great-great-grandfather, Michele, started a business buying and selling wine in Istria (then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire). Michele's son Marco added winemaking to the business, growing grapes and making some wine on the family farm just south of Trieste in what is now southwestern Slovenia. After World War I, Marco's son Giovanni continued the family wine trade, selling Istrian wine in Trieste and in Grado in southern Friuli. He also opened a cellar in Gradisca d'Isonzo in Collio in 1938, but World War II soon broke out, disrupting life for a decade. After the war, Istria became part of Soviet-dominated Yugoslavia; the family lost their farm there, and Collio became their home.
Two of Giovanni's seven children ultimately established wineries nearby. After graduating from the enology school in Conegliano, Marco Felluga worked for his older brother, Livio, before Livio started his own winery in Rosazzo. Marco stayed in Gradisca d'Isonzo and founded his winery in 1956. In 1967, he acquired the Russiz Superiore estate in Capriva del Friuli, which continues to operate as a separate winery. The Marco Felluga estate has vineyards in four parts of the Collio—Farra d'Isonzo, San Floriano del Collio, Oslavia, and Cormòns—allowing strategic grape selection. About 75% of production is white wine from international and local varieties. Russiz Superiore has 50 ha of vines, mainly from single vineyard lots, with some white wines vinified in oak.
In the 1990s, Marco's son Roberto began managing both estates, officially taking over in 2000, improving quality through sustainable viticulture. In 2017, his daughter Ilaria joined after studying viticulture and enology. Roberto died unexpectedly in 2021, and Marco in 2024, leaving Ilaria to manage the estates. The Tommasi Family partnered with her, aiming to preserve and enhance Collio's wine heritage. Today, Ilaria leads both estates, focusing on sustainability and high-quality wines, gaining recognition for her personality and deep knowledge of Friuli and her family's legacy.
With hundreds of white grape varieties to choose from, winemakers have the freedom to create a virtually endless assortment of blended white wines. In many European regions, strict laws are in place determining the set of varieties that may be used in white wine blends, but in the New World, experimentation is permitted and encouraged. Blending can be utilized to enhance balance or create complexity, lending different layers of flavors and aromas. For example, a variety that creates a soft and full-bodied white wine blend, like Chardonnay, would do well combined with one that is more fragrant and naturally high in acidity. Sometimes small amounts of a particular variety are added to boost color or aromatics. Blending can take place before or after fermentation, with the latter, more popular option giving more control to the winemaker over the final qualities of the wine.
Collio is a crescent-shaped sub region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia that hugs right up against the Slovenian border. It is perfectly situated for growing wine grapes, especially of the white variety.
The Julian Alps to Collio’s north allow the influx of cool, nighttime breezes, while the Adriatic Sea to its south regulates the region’s temperatures. The area contains flysch soils,locally known as, ponca, a layered, sedimentary rock that formed millions of years ago as continents collided under the sea. Today the flysch soils that dominate the hills of Collio provide an interesting substrate for vine roots, with measurable mineral variations within small areas. The fractured layers of flysch soils also facilitate drainage and deepening of vine roots.
The region boasts a unique set of indigenous white varieties including Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia and the rare, Picolit. International whites—Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon (Blanc) and Chardonnay—have also been in the area for well over 100 years. Today Collio is often associated with crisp, clean, floral and fruity whites. But in recent years, there has been a resurgence in popularity of the ancient Slovenian style of fermenting white grapes on their skins. This process retains additonal colors and phenols, producing a complex finished wine with an orange hue, warranting the term, "orange wines."
Reds are far less common but the indigenous Pignolo makes an age-worthy red, and the international varieties Merlot and Cabernet grow here as well.