Winemaker Notes
Lioco scaled production of this wine way back in this superlative, but significantly smaller 2019 vintage. They also treated this wine to a a few barrels of their new RRV vineyard designate, Casa Seca which is a magic, old vine Wente site next door to Kistler, thoughtfully farmed by the Dehlinger family. This primary vineyard source of Estero has long been the Teac Mor Vineyard, which their bohemian friend Steven Moore farms regeneratively (a system of farming practices that increases biodiversity, enriches soils, improves watersheds, and enhances ecosystems). His vines are rooted in some very old, complex soils of volcanic ash, river stones, loam, and clay. To hear Steven speak of the geological drama that played out in this valley millions of years ago is to better understand why the wines from his ranch are so characterful. This 2019 Estero which benefits from two distinctive sites, is a more complex wine than the 2018. And there's too little of it!
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
A standout region for its decidedly Californian take on Burgundian varieties, the Russian River Valley is named for the eponymous river that flows through it. While there are warm pockets of the AVA, it is mostly a cool-climate growing region thanks to breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir reign supreme in Russian River, with the best examples demonstrating a unique combination of richness and restraint. The cool weather makes Russian River an ideal AVA for sparkling wine production, utilizing the aforementioned varieties. Zinfandel also performs exceptionally well here. Within the Russian River Valley lie the smaller appellations of Chalk Hill and Green Valley. The former, farther from the ocean, is relatively warm, with a focus on red and white Bordeaux varieties. The latter is the coolest, foggiest parcel of the Russian River Valley and is responsible for outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.