Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard comes from 100+-year-old vines, with half head-pruned and the other half on a trellising system. It spent nine months in 46% new French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. This cuvée of 500 cases is absolutely sensational Zinfandel, just brilliant, with briary, black cherry fruit exploding from the glass. The wine is full-bodied, opulent and lavishly rich, with an extravagant concentration, purity and depth. This is about as good as a Zinfandel can be, so kudos to Don Hartford and winemaker Jeff Stewart.
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Wine Spectator
Sleek and taut, with cherry and licorice aromas and complex layers of raspberry, mineral and white pepper that linger toward big but plush tannins. Drink now through 2026. 496 cases made.
Unapologetically bold, spice-driven and jammy, Zinfandel has secured its title as the darling of California vintners by adapting well to the state's diverse microclimates and landscapes. Born in Croatia, it later made its way to southern Italy where it was named Primitivo. Fortunately, the imperial nursery of Vienna catalogued specimens of the vine, and it later made its way to New England in 1829. Parading the true American spirit, Zinfandel found a new home in California during the Gold Rush of 1849. Somm Secret—California's ancient vines of Zinfandel are those that survived the neglect of Prohibition; today these vines produce the most concentrated, ethereal and complex examples.
A standout region for its decidedly Californian take on Burgundian varieties, the Russian River Valley is named for the eponymous river that flows through it. While there are warm pockets of the AVA, it is mostly a cool-climate growing region thanks to breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir reign supreme in Russian River, with the best examples demonstrating a unique combination of richness and restraint. The cool weather makes Russian River an ideal AVA for sparkling wine production, utilizing the aforementioned varieties. Zinfandel also performs exceptionally well here. Within the Russian River Valley lie the smaller appellations of Chalk Hill and Green Valley. The former, farther from the ocean, is relatively warm, with a focus on red and white Bordeaux varieties. The latter is the coolest, foggiest parcel of the Russian River Valley and is responsible for outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.