Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Jeb Dunnuck
Even better, the 2016 Condrieu Les Chaillees de l'Enfer is vinified and aged in 25% new French oak (it’s made in the same fashion as the Coteau de Vernon). It would probably be the wine of the vintage if it wasn’t for its big brother. This vibrant gold-colored beauty boasts a huge nose of citrus blossom, tangerine, white flowers, citrus zest, and ample minerality. This is all about purity, finesse, and focus, with medium body, good acidity, and a terrific sense of salty minerality on the finish. It’s another brilliant wine from Madame Vernay.
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Wine Spectator
This is delightful, with the exotic apricot, nectarine and quince flavors typical of Condrieu but energized by ripples of honeysuckle, verbena and minerality throughout. Reveals an echo of bitter orange through the finish. Drink now through 2022.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.