Winemaker Notes
On the nose, the wine reveals aromas of sweet licorice, juniper berries, elderflower, and blueberries, accompanied by a mentholated finish and a spicy note of pepper. On the palate, the entry is fresh and tense, with firm tannins supported by significant acidity. There are hints of blood and a slight smokiness. The finish showcases notes of graphite and blackberry.
Professional Ratings
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Vinous
The 2022 Darmagi is another fabulous wine in this range from the Gaja family. Aromatic and vibrant to the core, the 2022 dazzles from start to finish. I have never tasted a Darmagi with this much textural finesse. Part of the approach in 2022 involved removing some of the skins after the initial vinfication. Dark red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal and graphite all meld together in the glass. Polished tannins remind me of young Lafite.
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2022 Darmagi is expressive with graphite, blackberry, fresh herbs, and tea leaf. Full-bodied, it has a well-defined structure, and while it’s ripe, it’s fully dry, with its more alpine and minty herbs of eucalyptus shining through the palate. It has a good deal of grip at this youthful stage, but it should offer some longevity over the coming 20 years.
Perched atop a steep hill in the Langhe sits the small village of Barbaresco, home of the GAJA winery. The story of the GAJA Winery can be traced to a singular, founding purpose: to produce original wines with a sense of place which reflect the tradition and culture of those who made it. This philosophy has inspired five generations of impeccable winemaking. It started over 150 years ago when Giovanni Gaja opened a small restaurant in Barbaresco, making wine to complement the food he served. In 1859, he founded the Gaja Winery, producing some of the first wine from Piedmont to be bottled and sold outside the region. Since that time, the winery has been shaped by each generation’s hand, notably that of Clotilde Rey, Angelo Gaja’s grandmother. Her passion for uncompromising quality influenced and informed Angelo Gaja. Through Angelo, these values have become the cornerstone of the GAJA philosophy and are engrained in every aspect of wine production
In 1961, Angelo Gaja began his mission of bringing this great winery to an even higher level. He was the first to use barriques, 225-liter French oak barrels. Under his direction, GAJA pioneered the production of single-vineyard designated wines and was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc varietals in Piedmont. He was also instrumental in elevating the native Nebbiolo grape to world-class esteem.
Angelo Gaja is joined by the fifth generation of the GAJA family – his daughters Gaia and Rossana and his son Giovanni. Together they continue to advance the winery’s legacy. To fully realize their vision, all GAJA wines are produced exclusively from grapes grown in estate-owned vineyards, including 250 acres in Piedmont’s Barbaresco and Barolo districts as well as estates in Pieve Santa Restituta (Montalcino) and Ca’Marcanda (Bolgheri). It is from these storied vineyards, and their terroir – the combination of soil, weather and vines that grow upon them, that GAJA wines reveal their true heart and soul.
Attracting the most glory, prestige and fame to the Piedmont region, Nebbiolo in all of its expressions—Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Ghemme and Gattinara—creates a complex wine, truly unique for its delicate qualities combined with strength and a great potential to improve over time.
But Nebbiolo isn’t all there is to red wine from Piedmont! Barbera is the most planted variety and historically most popular as a dependable, food-friendly, everyday wine.
Beyond these two, a surprising number of red varieties call Piedmont their home. Worth a try include Dolcetto for its bold concentration and aromas of spice cake. Other grapes to investigate include Freisa, Croatina, Brachetto, Grignolino and Pelaverga.