Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2007
Flaccianello combines all the wild and old-world characteristics of the Sangiovese grape with the modern vinification techniques of what may be the top winemaking house in Tuscany today. The wine is like a taming and training of a beautiful black mustang stallion that has spent just enough time in the wild to retain its fiery disposition. It opens up with brambly notes of berries and currants, cloves, lavender, violets and a hint of bittersweet chocolate. I wonder at the grace of the wine as I delight in the first sip that is supple and cool on the mouth but full of warm flavors that light up the palate with bright notes of cherries and strawberries, tempered with touches of earthy leather and cherry-nut chutney. The wine crashes into the mid-palate on a wave of currants, blackberries, and more, riper straw-berries as it balances itself at the same time on pure tannins and pinch or two of new, vanilla oak. The finish…oh the finish…Well made Sangiovese never disappoints and the Flaccianello rolls on and on seemingly forever. Finally it fades with light herbal notes…a hint of mint…a dash of licorice basil…then it's gone like a shooting star winking out in the night sky.
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
The 2007 Flaccianello della Pieve is showing signs of decline, and I have shortened the suggested drinking window here as a result. In fact, I have recently had the opportunity to taste this vintage in other contexts, and I came away with a similar impression. This was a hot vintage, and the various phases of phenolic ripening moved quickly along. The grapes were beautiful at harvest time, showing naturally rich concentration, succulence and structure. Today, some 12 years after the harvest, the wine has loosened up and flattened out. There are slightly oxidized notes on the bouquet, with dried prune and fig followed by spice, old tobacco and leather. This wine is open and mature, so if you have a bottle, I suggest you pull it out from the cellar soon.