Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2020
A grand dessert wine with notes of tropical fruits balanced to perfection against a glorious mineral acidity.
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
Hermannshöhle is thought to have once been a site of ancient worship, the name Hermann derived from Hermes, the Greek god of travelers. Certainly the site has imbued this wine with an otherworldly beauty. It comes on quietly, the main impression at first just brightness and clarity, then the wine warms to sunset flavors of red, orange and yellow radiating out on beams of bright, sunny acidity. Those flavors last, intense and penetrating, for days after opening. The wine is more intense than sweet, with a youthful power that’s charming.
The grandchild of the estate‘s founder, Helmut Dönnhoff, paved the way for international success by establishing an enduring quality and style in his wines. His vintages would in fact become a byword for renowned German Rieslings the world over. Following his training at his parents‘ estate and university studies in winegrowing, he assumed responsibility for both vineyard and cellar starting in 1971. “Extraordinary wines are based on extraordinary vineyards. I‘m fortunate to have had the opportunity to acquire several world-class sites and in some cases to resume cultivation. It remains very much a privilege for me to produce wine from vineyards of such exceptional quality. It‘s more than I ever could have dreamed when I first started working.” This deep understanding of grand wines and grand vineyards was passed on from father to son to grandson.
The fourth generation now holds the reins: Cornelius Dönnhoff. He began his training in 1999 and, after a series of positions abroad, in 2007 returned to assume responsibility for the estate – initially for the vineyard and cellar, and now for all aspects of the operation. History continues, but the estate remains what it has always been: a family affair in every sense.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.