Winemaker Notes
The "Höllenpfad" ("Path to Hell") name is an old one, likely referencing both the vineyard‘s steep slope as well as the unique color of the red sandstone. Grapes grown here tend to be very small with intense, nuanced aromas; the resulting wines are elegant with a spicy mineral fruit and excellent aging potential.
Professional Ratings
-
James Suckling
You couldn’t pack more stone fruit into a nose without overstretching propriety. Dried peaches, loquat, nectarines and apricots are all out on show. Behind that, though, are more subtle notes of flint and limestone. The acidity will set your mouth on fire, but it comes with sweeping, comprehensive oiliness to keep this rotund. Medium-to full-bodied but very, very long with lingering lemon pith. Drink or hold.
-
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2018 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Im Mühlenberg Riesling trocken –GG– is super clear and flinty on the crystalline and herbal nose. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied, round and piquant dry Riesling that has been bottled with less than two grams of residual sugar, which underlines the crystalline purity and refreshing mineral character. The wine reveals a long and intense, quite powerful and textured as well as salty and piquant finish. This is the first release of the Im Mühlenberg, and it is an impressive wine that has been aged on the lees until the end of June.
-
Wine Spectator
A bit austere at first, but gains charm with air. Expressive and intense, with quince, grapefruit and mineral aromas and flavors. Offers length and complexity. Harmonious overall, but should get better with several years of aging. Best from 2022 through 2034.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
