Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (375ml half bottle) 1985
Possibly Jacques' greatest contribution to the Domaine has been to instill his desire to search for new ways to improve the wine and the way wine is made. Though his vinification style looks relatively simple and non interventionist, it is result of much thought and experimentation. The style of wines must be elegance and finesse, with supple and well integrated tannins. The search is for equilibrium, harmony, length and complexity! This is why the grapes are vinifed with little or no destemming, Jacques being convinced that experience has shown that, despite certain inconveniences, such as loss of color, this give the wines greater complexity.
His style is influenced by his great respect for Burgundy's terroir. His complete trust in the terroir means he tries interfere as little as possible in order to allow the fruit to fully express itself and its origins. Burgundy made great wines far before the arrival of oenology and modern equipment. Experience, knowledge and technology are here to help us remedy the imperfections of the year, but if all is well there is no reason to tamper or intervene.
While Morey-St-Denis might not get the same attention as its neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, there is no reason why it shouldn’t. The same line of limestone runs from the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey—all the way through Morey—ending in Chambolle.
There are four grand cru vineyards, moving southwards from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin: Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart and a small segment of Bonnes-Mares overlapping from Chambolle. Clos de la Roche is probably the finest vineyard, giving wines of true depth, body, and sturdiness for the long haul than most other vineyards.
Pinot Noir from Morey-St-Denis is known for its deep red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. Aromas of spice, licorice and purple flowers are present in the wines’ youth, evolving to forest and game as the wine ages.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”