Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Following my previous encounter with the 1995 Haut Batailley, I was optimistic about its maturation in bottle. When Francois-Xavier Borie poured an example following a vertical at Grand Puy-Lacoste...well, that view was vindicated. This is perhaps an unheralded wine of a strong vintage. It has a generous bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit that cocks a snook at the 2000 Haut Batailley that was poured alongside. Mulberry and leather at first, undergrowth emerging with time. The palate might be a little smudged on the entry but there is impressive weight and concentration, superb balance and real structure on the finish to suggest that it will give 20+ years of pleasure. This is worth seeking out at its secondary market prices and probably more attractive than many of its peers. Tasted July 2016.
One of the world’s most classic and popular styles of red wine, Bordeaux-inspired blends have spread from their homeland in France to nearly every corner of the New World. Typically based on either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot and supported by Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, the best of these are densely hued, fragrant, full of fruit and boast a structure that begs for cellar time. Somm Secret—Blends from Bordeaux are generally earthier compared to those from the New World, which tend to be fruit-dominant.
The leader on the Left Bank in number of first growth classified producers within its boundaries, Pauillac has more than any of the other appellations, at three of the five. Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild border St. Estephe on its northern end and Chateau Latour is at Pauillac’s southern end, bordering St. Julien.
While the first growths are certainly some of the better producers of the Left Bank, today they often compete with some of the “lower ranked” producers (second, third, fourth, fifth growth) in quality and value. The Left Bank of Bordeaux subscribes to an arguably outdated method of classification that goes back to 1855. The finest chateaux in that year were judged on the basis of reputation and trading price; changes in rank since then have been miniscule at best. Today producers such as Chateau Pontet-Canet, Chateau Grand Puy-Lacoste, Chateau Lynch-Bages, among others (all fifth growth) offer some of the most outstanding wines in all of Bordeaux.
Defining characteristics of fine wines from Pauillac (i.e. Cabernet-based Bordeaux Blends) include inky and juicy blackcurrant, cedar or cigar box and plush or chalky tannins.
Layers of gravel in the Pauillac region are key to its wines’ character and quality. The layers offer excellent drainage in the relatively flat topography of the region allowing water to run off into “jalles” or streams, which subsequently flow off into the Gironde.