Chateau Doisy Daene L'Extravagant Sauternes (375ML half-bottle) 2001
"There is only a tiny amount of the light gold/green-colored 2001 Doisy-Daene l'Extravagant (primarily Sauvignon Blanc). As the name suggests, it is extravagantly rich as well as very full-bodied with extraordinary purity and intensity. The finish lasts for over a minute. There are loads of botrytis in addition to caramelized tropical fruits, zesty acidity, and striking clarity of expression. Anticipated maturity: now-2035."
Chateau Doisy Daene, Second's Cru Classe in 1855, located in Barsac in the Sauternes appellation, has been in the Dubourdieu family since 1924. For over eighty years three generations of vine growers have exercised talents to produce great sweet white wines : Georges (1924-1948), Pierre (1949-1999) and Denis since 2000.
Doisy Daene produces a great Sauternes wine along with distinguished and unusual dry white Bordeaux: Grand Vin Sec du Chateau Doisy-Daene. During the great vintages, Doisy-Daene produces a famous and rare cuvee of unequaled richness: L'Extravagant.
Sweet and unctuous but delightfully charming, the finest Sauternes typically express flavors of exotic dried tropical fruit, candied apricot, dried citrus peel, honey or ginger and a zesty beam of acidity.
Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle are the grapes of Sauternes. But Sémillon's susceptibility to the requisite noble rot makes it the main variety and contributor to what makes Sauternes so unique. As a result, most Sauternes estates are planted to about 80% Sémillon. Sauvignon is prized for its balancing acidity and Muscadelle adds aromatic complexity to the blend with Sémillon.
Botrytis cinerea or “noble rot” is a fungus that grows on grapes only in specific conditions and its onset is crucial to the development of the most stunning of sweet wines.
In the fall, evening mists develop along the Garonne River, and settle into the small Sauternes district, creeping into the vineyards and sitting low until late morning. The next day, the sun has a chance to burn the moisture away, drying the grapes and concentrating their sugars and phenolic qualities. What distinguishes a fine Sauternes from a normal one is the producer’s willingness to wait and tend to the delicate botrytis-infected grapes through the end of the season.
Apart from the classics, we find many regional gems of different styles.
Late harvest wines are probably the easiest to understand. Grapes are picked so late that the sugars build up and residual sugar remains after the fermentation process. Ice wine, a style founded in Germany and there referred to as eiswein, is an extreme late harvest wine, produced from grapes frozen on the vine, and pressed while still frozen, resulting in a higher concentration of sugar. It is becoming a specialty of Canada as well, where it takes on the English name of ice wine.
Vin Santo, literally “holy wine,” is a Tuscan sweet wine made from drying the local white grapes Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia in the winery and not pressing until somewhere between November and March.