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Boroli Barbera d'Alba Bricco 4 Fratelli 2000
In the 1990’s, Silavano and Elena Boroli felt the need to extend their interest and endeavors. They wanted something that would bring them closer to nature and away from the demands of the contemporary business world. As Piedmontese, the choice was almost an obligation: making wine in Langa.
In 2000 Achille, the third of the four Boroli sons entered the family wine business. The farm director is the oenologist Enzo Alluvione, assisted by his son Daniele for the vineyards and by Achille Boroli for the marketing and selling. The farm consultant is the oenologist Beppe Caviola. The vines grown are Nebbiolo, Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Dolcetto, White Moscato and Chardonnay. The farm rests atop the ‘Madonna di Como’ hill, 5 kilometres from the center of Alba. The history of this magical place is interesting: the Celts who inhabited the area since the 4th century AD worshipped amongst others ‘Como’, the god of feasts; the Romans arrived during the first century AD and the name ‘Como’ came to mean a procession of young dancers in honor of the wine god Bacchus.
In a sense, “Alba” is a catch-all phrase, and includes the declassified Nebbiolo wines made in Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as the Nebbiolo grown just outside of these regions’ borders. In fact, Nebbiolo d’Alba is a softer, less tannic and more fruit-forward wine ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling. It is a great place to start if you want to begin to understand the grape. Likewise, the even broader category of Langhe Nebbiolo offers approachable and value-driven options as well.
Barbera, planted alongside Nebbiolo in the surrounding hills, and referred to as Barbera d’Alba, takes on a more powerful and concentrated personality compared to its counterparts in Asti.
Dolcetto is ubiquitous here and, known as Dolcetto d'Alba, can be found casually served alongside antipasti on the tables of Alba’s cafes and wine bars.
Not surprisingly, given its location, Alba is recognized as one of Italy’s premiere culinary destinations and is the home of the fall truffle fair, which attracts visitors from worldwide every year.
Friendly, approachable and full of juicy red fruit, Barbera produces wines in a wide range of styles, from youthful, fresh and fruity to serious, structured and age-worthy. Piedmont is the most famous source of Barbera, but it is also planted in a few nearby Italian provinces and remains one of the most widely planted varieties in the country. Barbera actually can adapt to many climates and enjoys success in California—particularly in the Sierra Foothills—and some southern hemisphere wine regions.
In the Glass
Barbera is typically marked by flavors of red cherry, raspberry or blackberry and backed by a signature zingy acidity. Warmer sites produce Barberas with intensely ripe fruit and complex notes of cocoa, savory spice, anise and nutmeg. Cooler sites will produce a lighter Barbera with more finesse and intriguing notes of cranberry, graphite, smoke, lavender and violet.
Barbera’s prominent acidity makes it a natural match with tomato-based dishes, making it an easy pairing with a wide array of Italian cuisine. It works just as well with lighter red meat dishes, hamburgers or barbecue.
In the past it wasn’t common or even accepted to age Barbera in oak but today both styles—oaked and unoaked—abound, at least in Piedmont. In fact, many Piemontese producers today still make a deliciously pure, fruity and unoaked version, intended for earlier consumption. The wine world didn't realize Barbera's potential until the work of Giacomo Bologna in Asti in the 1960s. His debut of the barrique-aged Barbera called Bricco dell’Uccellone revealed this grape's true potential. Many of the better bottlings of Piemontese Barbera can age gracefully for 10-15 years or more.