Bonny Doon California Critique of Pure Riesling 2004 Front Label
Bonny Doon California Critique of Pure Riesling 2004 Front Label

Bonny Doon California Critique of Pure Riesling 2004

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    Winemaker Notes

    Kant, or won't? Is it the words we use to represent electric acidity and peachy, mineral flavors that is determinative of rieslingness, or does the state of rieslingness imprint upon us our organoleptic understanding of the wine? Either way, Kant would clearly have benefited with a higher dose of acid. We have dusted off Critique after a 3 year hiatus in what is turning out to be an exceptional vintage for dry white wines. Though 2004 was unusually hot throughout most of the west coast, the wines in general maintained a remarkably high level of natural acidity, enough to impress and further stiffen the spine of the most vigilant Teuton. Due in large measure to the combination of warm temperatures and the long hang time necessary to achieve phenological maturity, Critique also carries around with it more than a tad of alcohol, yet the wine seems to gather it in and contain it without aid of fire suppression equipment.

    An excellent example of the “harmonic dry" winemaking style, the 2004 Critique shows off the bright stone fruit and wispy white flower essences unique to riesling, while containing them in a very rigid, stony, even austere framework. As with the Malvasia Bianca, a definite, though spurious suggestion of sweetness in the nose is met with potent crackle of acidity, complete dryness and [in this case unlike the malvasia] an expansiveness across the palate courtesy of fermentation in older barrels and the wonder drug of intensive lees therapy--doctor's orders.

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    Bonny Doon

    Bonny Doon

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    Bonny Doon, California
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    Based in Santa Cruz, heartland of New Age thinking and deferred transition to adulthood, Bonny Doon Vineyard has a not-so surprising history of idealism and innovation. Founded by Randall Grahm in the bucolic hamlet of Bonny Doon, California, in 1983, we’re known for strikingly original wines made from lesser-known (though no less noble) grape varieties, the vinous Ugly Ducklings. Bonny Doon Vineyard made its mark with pioneering work with Rhône varieties, innovative production techniques, and imaginative marketing that has, truth be told, sometimes been too clever by half. Since the adoption of biodynamic farming practices in 2004 and the radical slimming down of product portfolio and case production in 2006 (with a concomitant greater degree of focus and attention to detail), the wines evince a more complex expression of varietal character, a more noticeable sense of organization, and a greater degree of life-force.

    Come visit our Tasting Room, located at 450 Highway 1, Davenport, CA, about 10 miles north of Santa Cruz. This is a wonderful intimate space that is the perfect venue to enjoy our doon-home wines, even if your home is perhaps Alpha Centauri. We’re here to serve mankind (wines that are out of this world).

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    Responsible for the vast majority of American wine production, if California were a country, it would be the world’s fourth largest wine-producing nation. The state’s diverse terrain and microclimates allow for an incredible range of wine styles, and unlike tradition-bound Europe, experimentation is more than welcome here. Wineries range from tiny, family-owned boutiques to massive corporations, and price and production are equally varied. Plenty of inexpensive bulk wine is made in the Central Valley area, while Napa Valley is responsible for some of the world’s most prestigious and expensive “cult” wines.

    Each American Viticultural Area (AVA) and sub-AVA of has its own distinct personality, allowing California to produce wine of every fashion: from bone dry to unctuously sweet, still to sparkling, light and fresh to rich and full-bodied. In the Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc dominate vineyard acreage. Sonoma County is best known for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. The Central Coast has carved out a niche with Rhône Blends blends based on Grenache and Syrah, while Mendocino has found success with cool climate varieties such as Pinot noir, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. With all the diversity that California has to offer, any wine lover will find something to get excited about here.

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    LAU118482704_2004 Item# 83606

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