Winemaker Notes
The Les Chaillets Condrieu consists of the best and oldest Viognier vines on the estate, on south/southeast-facing terraces overlooking Chavanay. Les Chaillets is not a district but the local name for the aforementioned terraces. Planted on biotite-rich granite soils, the Le Chaillets is fermented spontaneously using native yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is done in barrels and big casks that are temperature controlled. The wine spends an additional nine months on the lees (no battonage and no racking) in barrel and large casks before bottling.
This is a stunning Viognier and a reference point for the area. The wine features beguiling apricot and peach aromas interlaid with sweet spices, mineral notes from the soil, and hints of vanilla cream. The palate is fleshy and full with fresh notes of granitic minerality; a deep and complex wine that is an ideal accompaniment to rich shellfish dishes such as lobster or bouillabaisse.
Professional Ratings
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Jeb Dunnuck
Yves’ 2022 Condrieu Les Chaillets is absolutely brilliant, and I'd put this up with the finest in the appellation. Ripe, intense aromatics of ripe pineapple, honeyed flowers, orange blossom, and subtle floral notes all define the bouquet, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, beautiful concentration and depth, and one heck of a great finish. If you get a chance, buy it.
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Wine Spectator
A smoky, sultry, very briny version with silky texture to mostly savory flavors of herbs and simmering minerals. White peach and light apple fill out the creamy mid-palate, with heather and chamomile and long, winding, salt-kissed finish.
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James Suckling
A well-composed, poised and lively Condrieu. It shows notes of yellow plums, lemons, wild herbs and a touch of verbena. Medium-bodied with a succulent development. It’s textural and precise, with good volume on the mid-palate. Succulent and flavorful finish.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Matured for nine months in equal parts barrels and foudres (wooden tanks), the 2022 Condrieu les Chaillets Vieilles Vignes reveals a dense, oaky bouquet of apricot, ripe white fruits and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it's enrobing with a slightly tannic core of fruit framed by oaky notes. Too oaky for my taste, this is a rather well-crafted but oak-dominated Condrieu.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.