Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees Fleurie 2017  Front Label
Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees Fleurie 2017  Front LabelJean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees Fleurie 2017  Front Bottle Shot

Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees Fleurie 2017

  • JS92
  • RP92
  • V91
750ML / 0% ABV
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  • RP91
  • JS92
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4.7 9 Ratings
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4.7 9 Ratings
750ML / 0% ABV

Winemaker Notes

100% Gamay. Fleurie is one of Jean-Paul's two largest cru holdings, 6 hectares all within the famous lieu-dit of Grille Midi, a south-facing amphitheater of vines on poor, sandy, decomposed-granite soils over hard granite rock. The difference between this regular Fleurie bottling and his Grille Midi bottling is vine age and elevage. This Fleurie is from the younger vines, clocking in around 40 years old (versus 60 years and up for Grille Midi). As for his other wines, the vinification is traditional Burgundian and the aging in concrete, for 6-8 months for the Fleurie (versus aging in foudres for the Grille Midi).

Critical Acclaim

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JS 92
James Suckling
What a great cherry nose this elegant and lively Fleurie has! A delicious Beaujolais with the traditional lightness of these wines and a long, very clean finish. An excellent food-wine. Drink or hold.
RP 92
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Offering up aromas of raspberries, dried flowers and candied peel, the 2017 Fleurie is medium to full-bodied, elegant and layered, with an expansive attack and a deep, concentrated mid-palate, its generous core of fruit largely concealing its chewy chassis of tannins. Like all of Brun’s crus, this will improve with bottle age, but it’s also the most supple and accessible out of the gates.
V 91
Vinous

Lurid magenta. Energetic, spice-accented cherry and black raspberry aromas are complicated by a subtle candied rose nuance. Juicy and seamless on the palate, offering sweet cherry, boysenberry and spicecake flavors that unfurl slowly on the back half. Finishes youthfully tannic and spicy, delivering solid punch and strong, mineral-driven persistence.

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Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees
Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees, France
Jean-Paul Brun started Terres Dorées in 1979 with a mere 4 hectares of vines in Charnay in the southern Beaujolais, an area which is slightly warmer and more limestone-driven versus the more renowned granite-rich cru villages in the northern Beaujolais. Today, the Charnay estate is around 30 acres, but with an additional 15 hectares farmed in the crus. The farming in Charnay is organic and includes working of the soils; the cru parcels are farmed sustainably and the soils are not worked. Harvest is by hand and of well-ripened but not over-ripened fruit, so alcohol levels are generally modest. Annual Terres Dorées production is around 350,000 bottles, 85-90% of it from estate fruit with the rest of it sourced. From the beginning, Jean-Paul carved a different path for himself in Beaujolais. Not only does he not chaptalize (common practice here), he has also always eschewed the relatively modern technique of carbonic maceration, in favor of traditional Burgundian vinification. His feeling was and remains that the character of Gamay and its varied terroirs is obscured by whole-cluster fermentation, as well as by the use of commercial yeasts and copious sulfur. He has never strayed from that philosophy, continuing to carefully sort and destem his grapes; add no yeast; add no sulfur (until a touch at bottling); allow for several weeks’ maceration; do regular pigeage or punchdowns; and age in a combination of concrete and old oak, varying with vintage and wine. Jean-Paul is not an adherent or advocate of “natural wine” per se, yet is among the most natural of Beaujolais vignerons, uninterested in trend or fashion but deeply committed to purity of expression of fruit and site. The individuality of those expressions--the fact that each is a different wine from all of the others--is intentionally emphasized by his choice to label every one of his many bottlings with a completely different label.
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Beaujolais Wine

Burgundy, France

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The bucolic region often identified as the southern part of Burgundy, Beaujolais actually doesn’t have a whole lot in common with the rest of the region in terms of climate, soil types and grape varieties. Beaujolais achieves its own identity with variations on style of one grape, Gamay.

Gamay was actually grown throughout all of Burgundy until 1395 when the Duke of Burgundy banished it south, making room for Pinot noir to inhabit all of the “superior” hillsides of Burgundy proper. This was good news for Gamay as it produces a much better wine in the granitic soils of Beaujolais, compared with the limestone escarpments of the Côte d’Or.

Four styles of Beaujolais exist though most is sold under the basic Beaujolais appellation. The simplest, and one that has regrettably given the region a subpar reputation, is Beaujolais Nouveau. This is the wine that is made using carbonic maceration (a quick fermentation that results in sweet aromas) and is released on the third Thursday of November in the same year as harvest. It's meant to drink young and is flirty, fruity and fun. The rest of Beaujolais is where the serious wines are found. Beaujolais-Villages, which must come from the hilly northern part of the region, offer reasonable values with some gems among them. The superior section are the cru vineyards coming from ten distinct communes: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly. Any cru Beajolais will have its commune name prominent on the label.

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Delightfully playful, but also capable of impressive gravitas, Gamay is responsible for juicy, berry-packed wines predominantly from Beaujolais. In Beaujolais, Gamay generally has three classes: Beaujolais Nouveau, a decidedly young, fruit-driven wine, Beaujolais Villages and Cru Beaujolais. The Villages and Crus are highly ranked grape growing communes whose wines are capable of improving with age whereas Nouveau, released two months after harvest, is intended for immediate consumption. Somm Secret—The ten different Crus have their own distinct personalities—Fleurie is delicate and floral, Côte de Brouilly is concentrated and elegant and Morgon is structured and age-worthy.

PRG000518_17_2017 Item# 515891

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