Jean-Luc Colombo Crozes Hermitage Les Fees Brunes 2005
Taste: The beautiful 2005 vintage resulted in the presence of especially southern accents – jammy fruits, such as ripe plum and fig – a silky texture and glossy finish. This is a generous, well-structured wine that can be enjoyed on release and for another four or five years after.
Serving suggestions: Perfect with red meats, hearty pasta dishes and aged cheeses.
Innovation, passion and dedication are what drive Jean-Luc and Anne Colombo, whose contributions to Rhône Valley winemaking has remained unparalleled since 1984. Colombo’s innovative approach in the northern appellation of Cornas was nothing short of revolutionary; his expressive, character-driven wines have helped breath new life into this highly prestigious and acclaimed appellation.
Jean-Luc, Anne and their daughter Laure, now head winemaker, continue to ensure the production of fine wines of typicity from major appellations of the Rhône Valley, as well as the Languedoc and Provence, while maintaining sustainable farming practices.
One of the smallest and most important Syrah regions of northern Rhone, Hermitage is practically one single south-facing slope of crushed granite, thinly covered with varied, yet well-charted soil types. Many climats (well identified parcels) exist within Hermitage and while some smaller producers make single climat Syrahs, some larger ones blend to make one balanced expression of the appellation.
Though the AC regulations allow the addition of up to 15% white grapes to a red Hermitage, in practice it is usually made from Syrah alone. Winemaking is pretty traditional—or you might say historic—with hot fermentations and aging in older barrels of various sizes. The best wines, characterized by deep, dense and sexy flavors of black fruit, cocoa, licorice and tobacco, have massive textures and a solid 10-20 years aging potential.
The region of Hermitage is totally enclosed; the only place it could go really is to literally fall down its own hill into the city of Tain or the Rhone River. Soil erosion is a problem and terraces exist alongside the hill in order to keep the earth in place. Crozes-Hermitage encloses the region entirely to its north and south.
While Hermitage seems synonymous with some of the best Syrah on the planet, actually about one third of the wine produced here comes from white grapes. The full, lush and robust Marsanne or the less common, but almost more charming, Roussanne create wonderful whites in which the best have great potential for aging, like the reds.
Marked by an unmistakable deep purple hue and savory aromatics, Syrah makes an intense, powerful and often age-worthy red. Native to the Northern Rhône, Syrah achieves its maximum potential in the steep village of Hermitage and plays an important component in the Red Blends of Southern Rhône, adding color and structure to Grenache and Mourvèdre. Syrah is the most widely planted grape of Australia and is important in California and Washington. Sommelier Secret—Such a synergy these three create together, the Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre trio often takes on the shorthand term, “GSM.”