Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
Full-bodied, with quite noticeable oak at this stage. Wonderful sense of freshness, however, and great precision. Long, lush and generous yet defined, this is a very classic Condrieu in all its resplendent flamboyance. Cooling almond and coconut on the finish. From 25-year-old Viognier grown on granite soils in the villages of Chavanay and Vérin, fermented at low temperatures with indigenous yeasts. Spends 11 months in barrel, one third new, six months of which sees weekly lees stirring. Tasted non-blind.
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Wine Spectator
A hedonistic display of green pear, tropical fruit and brioche is reined in by smoke and mineral notes as well as a firming spine of bitter-edged acidity. Singed wild herbs, heather and green almond chime in on the silky palate in this tightly coiled version, which has the power and energy to evolve beautifully with time. Drink now.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.