Winemaker Notes
Certified biodynamic, bursting at the seams after two decades of relative neglect under Louis Jadot, this walled 3.7h monopole is the jewel of Pommard 1ers Crus, elegant and smooth, refined and balanced, with plenty of grip from its iron-oxide limestone subsoils.
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
The team's work at Domaine de la Commaraine is truly exciting, and the potential can be seen in this sample blend of the new vintage. The wine boasts a forward, luxurious blackberry and pomegranate aroma with hints of violets, spice, and smoke. The texture is lush and dense but abundant with well-managed tannins, substantial extract, and an immensely long finish. The grapes are from the eponymous 3.63-hectare Clos, although some have been declassified by régisseur Paul Krug, who formerly worked with Pedro Para. This domaine is definitely one to watch.
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Jasper Morris
The blend has been made up for this sample. Some of it has been racked but some not. The nose is powerful, with structure, definitely ungiving. The grapes are pretty ripe here, with a good tension behind, and many layers of dark fruit flavour The succulence takes precedence over any rigidity of structure. There remains a slight bitterness at the finish which I take as a good thing for long term ageing. Drink from 2030-2038.
Barrel Sample: 92-95
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Representing some of the darkest, deepest and sturdiest Pinot Noir of Burgundy, Pommard is one of the two villages in Côte de Beaune—along with Volnay—that is recognized for its impressive Pinot Noir. While it can’t boast any Grands Crus vineyards, its extraordinary Premiers Crus vineyards are aplenty.
Les Pézerolles, Les Épenots, Clos des Épeneaux, Les Chanlins, Les Jarolières, Les Fremiers and particularly Les Rugiens are among the most outstanding Premiers Crus.
The best Pommards will be concentrated in flavors such as black cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate, have dazzling aromas of violets, menthol or wild herbs and a firm and powerful finish. They typically demand some time in the bottle to reach their peak.