Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
Anne Gros has called this wine her 'baby Richebourg'. The ancient vines (planted in 1930) are located at the top of the slope above Richebourg and Cros Parantoux. In 2021, it produced a surprisingly dark-hued wine with a marked aroma of ripe pomegranate and plum aromas and a hint of rose petals and liquorice. This wine is fresh and lively but with plenty of tannic grip and impressive length. She destems the grapes and extracts gently before ageing in cask (one-third new). Gros called it 'vibratrice'—a perfect way to explain the impression.
Barrel Sample: 93 -
Jasper Morris
Two new barrels in 5, a tiny crop with very old vines. A bright deep red purple. The bouquet offers much more concentration here. An impressive distinction about this. This exhales beautifully on the palate albeit with firmer tannins behind. The dark fruit stays light on its feet but delivers energy, and length. More backward at this stage.
Barrel Sample: 91-92
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
This is the village for the most die-hard Burgundy fanatics. Vosne-Romanée has for many hundreds of years been the source of the most sought-after Pinot Noir in Burgundy. The village claims six Grands Crus—and some of the most famous at that—but in other villages where owners manage tiny parcels or a few rows of any one vineyard, monopolies dominate the Grands Crus of Vosne-Romanee.
Of these monopolies, Domaine Romanee-Conti (DRC) reigns supreme, claiming not only more total vineyard area than any other producer, but outright owning the entirety of two of the Grands Crus and a majority of two others. In its full possession are naturally Romanée-Conti, as well as La Tâche. DRC also owns most of Richebourg and Romanée-St-Vivant. The final two, La Grande Rue and La Romanée are completely owned by other other produers: François Lamarche and Comte Liger Belair, respectively.
While one could spend a lifetime on the puzzles of land ownership in Burgundy, the point is that Vosne-Romanee contains the most valuable pieces of vineyard real estate in the world. Pinot Noir from any of its vineyards—especially from within its 27ha of Grand Cru or 58 ha of Premier Cru land—is going to rank among the best.
The most outstanding wines from this village have everything: finesse and elegance coupled with the body and sturdiness for incredibly long aging ability. They are intensely floral and exotically spiced. Beautifully ripe, complex and ephemeral throughout, they are robust, yet fine-grained in texture. These wines will stay gorgeous for the long haul.