Winemaker Notes
From their cellar in the heart of historic Monforte d’Alba, brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino exemplify low-intervention winemaking at its best, with an old-school vibe that resonates through each of their classic cuvées. The Laboro is a declassified Barolo Riserva aged in neutral old botti; Gian Natale defines it as “so typically Barolo that it’s not even a Barolo.” Deep and brawny, it is loaded with dark fruit and balsamic notes of incense, tea, and spice, finishing with a thick, chewy tannin. “This is old-fashioned Nebbiolo, the way we like it!” Gianni exclaims. This brooding beast epitomizes great Barolo from Monforte.
Professional Ratings
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Vinous
The 2016 Laboro Disobedient is fabulous. Tasting it makes me feel like I am in the cellar in Monforte. Sweet floral and spice notes open first, followed by a burst of sweet red berry and plum fruit. Deep and yet light on its feet, the 2016 is wonderfully deep and so expressive. I loved it.
Attracting the most glory, prestige and fame to the Piedmont region, Nebbiolo in all of its expressions—Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Ghemme and Gattinara—creates a complex wine, truly unique for its delicate qualities combined with strength and a great potential to improve over time.
But Nebbiolo isn’t all there is to red wine from Piedmont! Barbera is the most planted variety and historically most popular as a dependable, food-friendly, everyday wine.
Beyond these two, a surprising number of red varieties call Piedmont their home. Worth a try include Dolcetto for its bold concentration and aromas of spice cake. Other grapes to investigate include Freisa, Croatina, Brachetto, Grignolino and Pelaverga.