Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2023 Condrieu La Combe De Malleval is a gorgeous expression of Condrieu, offering perfectly ripe peach, honeysuckle, white flowers, and crushed stone, with hints of spice. Medium to full-bodied and pure on the palate, with beautiful freshness and fine tannins, this is an incredibly elegant, layered effort to drink over the coming 7-8 years. Drink 2025-2033.
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Vinous
Using roughly 40% new oak during its élevage, the 2023 Condrieu La Combe de Malleval starts with delicate white peach, apricot, vanilla and chamomile notes. Accentuating freshness in an earlier harvest Condrieu style, the 2023 clocks out with refinement on the uplifting finish. There's nothing overripe or tropical going on here.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.