Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Vinous
The 2024 Riesling Goldberg, from volcanic amphibolite, still crackles with flinty reduction on the nose. A shy, closed palate charms with a slight overtone of passion fruit but promises much more. Tingling brightness at the citric core radiates freshness and the concentration of ripe citrus zest is a beautiful pointer for the future. Give this time; the length of flavor promises fireworks ahead.
Barrel Sample: 94-96 -
James Suckling
Oolong tea, nectarine, honey and tobacco aromas in this deep, ripe yet minerally white. It’s concentrated but only medium-bodied, with fresh acidity backing the fruit. Nicely firm at the end. Drink or hold.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
The region of considerable geologic diversity and microclimates, Kremstal extends virtually without border east from Wachau along the Danube River. Its magnificent terraced and rocky vineyards in the west alongside Wachau include some of Austria’s most esteemed Riesling vineyards, the (Steiner) Hund and Pfaffenberg, as well as Kögl and Wachtberg nearer to the city of Krems. After Krems, the vineyards become excessively steep upstream around Senftenberg where Riesling and Grüner Veltliner thrive. Grüner Veltliner does best from here east where the soils become a mix of sand, gravel and loess.
Grüner Veltliner and Riesling together comprise two thirds of all of the Kremstal vineyards; the region itself represents about five percent of Austria’s total vineyard area.