Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
-
Jeb Dunnuck
One of the greatest values in the wine world has to be the Kerbuccio cuvée from Jean-Marc Lafage’s Chateau Saint Roch estate in Maury. The 2017 isn’t going to break the trend. Checking in as a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, it’s a blockbuster, deep, massive effort that just screams Grenache from Maury. Ripe blackberries, melted chocolate, black cherries, and cured meat notes all emerge from this beautifully textured, layered, opulent wine that stays balanced and pure. Brought up in 80% new demi-muids, it shows no sense of its oak élevage, has beautiful purity and freshness, and tastes like it cost 4-5 times the price. Drink it over the coming 4-5 years.
For over two centuries, the La-Fage family has been rooted in the rugged, beautiful lands of Roussillon. It is a legacy of worldly and generational knowledge, rooted in Roussillon, which forms the very soul of Château Saint-Roch. After traveling the globe as an acclaimed international winemaker, Jean-Marc Lafage felt the powerful pull of his family's origins, returning in 2005 to acquire the estate in the ancient village of Maury. His return was not just a business decision; it was a homecoming.
Here, in the majestic Agly Valley, every wine tells a story forged by wind and stone. The vineyards, some over 50 years old, cling to their unique clay-shale soils with a limestone base, a difficult terroir that forces the vines to struggle, concentrating the grapes with an incredible depth of character. Above all, the powerful, dry "Tramontana" winds, a constant presence from the sea, act as a natural sculptor, protecting the vines from disease and imbuing the grapes with a singular freshness. It is a place of raw beauty, watched over by the dramatic silhouette of the ancient Cathar castle of Quéribus.
Jean-Marc's winemaking philosophy perfectly marries this rich tradition with modern innovation with sustainable commitments. He is renowned for pioneering regenerative viticulture practices, preserving old vines and planting new varietals, cultivating and using biochar for water retention, etc.
Jean-Marc has meticulously restored and updated the cellars, knowing that the most advanced technology is simply a tool to honor the land's ancient wisdom. He allows the soul of the terroir to be fully expressed, blending the rugged power of old vines with the precision of modern stainless steel to create wines of exceptional purity and character.
This is especially true of his Rosé, a wine that truly captures the essence of the place. With every sip, you experience the taste of the Mediterranean breeze, captured in a Rosé bottle—a vibrant, fresh, and compelling expression of the Roussillon sun, the wind, and the stone. It is a wine that is both a reflection of a family's deep history and a toast to the living, breathing landscape they call home.
With bold fruit flavors and accents of sweet spice, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre form the base of the classic Rhône Red Blend, while Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise often come in to play. Though they originated from France’s southern Rhône Valley, with some creative interpretation, Rhône blends have also become popular in other countries. Somm Secret—Putting their own local spin on the Rhône Red Blend, those from Priorat often include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In California, it is not uncommon to see Petite Sirah make an appearance.
A northern point in France’s far southern Roussillon region, Maury is dominated by steep limestone cliffs and the castle of Queribus, which the French used as a defense outpost against the Spanish until 1659. Today it remains an important symbol of the presence of both cultures in the region.
Though Maury is famous for vins doux naturels (a style of fortified wine), Maury dry red wines are quickly becoming more in vogue and received their own appellation designation in 2011, called Maury Sec. As is the case in most of Roussillon, Grenache plays a key role here. The region’s schist-dominant vineyards, which climb up to 1,300 feet, are excellent for the production of Grenache of all styles.
For Maury dry red wines, Carignan, Mourvèdre and Syrah act as blending partners with Granche Noir. In the production of vins doux naturels, Grenache Gris and Blanc play a subsidiary role. The latter are characterized using the same terminology as that in Riveslates with those named as grenat or tuilé based on Grenache Noir and those described as ambré or blanc containing more Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris.