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William Fevre Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2008
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
Smoky, fusil crushed chalk and fresh lemon in the nose of Fevre’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos lead to a palate lusciously-brimming with fresh apricot, lemon, and grapefruit, suffused with chalk, white pepper, salt, iodine, green tea, and distilled herbal essences. Exhilarating and rejuvenating, this finishes with a tenacity, vivacity, and tactile presence hard to equal in the vintage. A gripping, ultra-mineral Les Clos, for all of its sheer fruit intensity, it makes no concessions to charm or winsomeness, particularly in its mineral-dominated finish, which some may consider austere. But few will be able to weather this cru’s gutsy intensity unbent, or scour its residues from their gums and lips. I suspect it will be worth following for a good 15 years, but even more than any of the other wines in the 2008 Fevre collection, this should be given a few years in bottle before one gets serious about drinking more than an introductory bottle.
Here too the elegance of the nose is simply stunning with a layered and perfumed aromatic profile trimmed in an almost invisible touch of oak that allows it to ooze Chablis character and in particular, a fine minerality that continues onto the impressively concentrated and palate staining flavors that possess striking precision on the explosively long and bone dry finish. This is a great Les Clos that will make old bones.
Tight and steely in character, a serious wine that is all tight, mineral structure. It has great potential, its texture dominated by citrus and green apple elements. Age for at least five years.
Clean and focused, with apple, lemon, yellow plum and mineral notes riding a firm structure. This is balanced, showing a chalklike texture and a savory element on the finish. There's fine clarity and loads of power in reserve. Best from 2013 through 2025. 200 cases imported.
This starts in the cellar, with scents of cool limestone walls and white mushrooms. Then it shifts into fruit, toward perfectly ripe apple and the mist off a squeeze of lemon zest. The fruit is framed by mineral acidity that brings out spice notes of acacia and lemon verbena. The clarity of the wine is what captures the imagination: chardonnay in its purest form. Astonishing now, it will bring joy in ten years' time.
In 1998, the venerable Henriot family from Champagne succeeded him. The Domaine was taken up with the desire to make indisputably genuine and fine wines, bringing along a very personal expertise in Chardonnay. All the efforts have but one goal – to finely express the most subtle variations in the greatest Chablis crus.
William Fèvre owns the widest array of Grands Crus and benefits from ideal conditions to produce excellent Chablis. Located on “historical” terroirs, dating from before the extension of the vineyard areas that occurred in the 1970’s, the William Fèvre Domaine is at the very heart of the vineyards, on soil that mixes marl and clay-rich lime, as well as a Kimmeridgian subsoil rich in minerals and oyster fossils that give Chablis its unique mineral character.
Associated with luxury, celebration, and romance, Champagne is home to the world’s most prized sparkling wine. In order to be labeled ‘Champagne’ within the EU and many New World countries, a wine must originate in this northeastern region of France and adhere to strict quality standards. Made up of the three towns Reims, Épernay, and Aÿ, it was here that the traditional method of sparkling wine production was both invented and perfected, birthing a winemaking technique as well as a flavor profile that is now emulated worldwide. Well-drained limestone chalk soil defines much of the region, lending a mineral component to the wines. The climate here is marginal—ample acidity is a requirement for sparkling wine, so overripe grapes are to be avoided. Weather differences from year to year create significant variation between vintages, and in order to maintain a consistent house style, non-vintage cuvées are produced annually from a blend of several years.
With nearly negligible exceptions, three varieties are permitted for use in Champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. These can be blended together or bottled varietally, depending on the final style of wine desired. Chardonnay, the only white variety, contributes freshness, delicacy, and elegance, as well as bright and lively acidity and notes of citrus, orchard fruit, and white flowers. Pinot Noir and its relative Pinot Meunier provide the backbone to many blends, adding structure, body, and supple red fruit flavors. Wines with a large proportion of Pinot Meunier will be ready to drink earlier, while Pinot Noir contributes to longevity. Whether it is white or rosé, most Champagne is made from a blend of red and white grapes—and uniquely, rosé is often produce by blending together red and white wine. A Champagne made exclusively from Chardonnay will be labeled as ‘blanc de blancs,’ while one comprised of only red grapes are called ‘blanc de noirs.’