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Teruzzi & Puthod Rondolino Vernaccia di San Gimignan 2004
Eclectic and versatile, Enrico's interests have ranged from electromechanics to professional skiing. At twenty-eight, he married French born Carmen Puthod, prima donna of Milan's celebrated La Scala; at thirty, he was a father; at forty, a country gentleman in Tuscany; at forty-four, a hit.
In a way, being a newcomer in the wine world was instrumental to his success: Enrico started from square one, unburdened by prejudice and past mistakes; supported by expert advice at first, and by such classics as Gayon and Peynaud. He was actually one of the very first to introduce temperature control in Vernaccia di San Gimignano production, and his state-of-the-art technology soon set the pace in the appellation.
Today, he has achieved a perfect balance of depth and cleanliness; of fruit, complexity and barrique; of tradition and international appeal - and, thanks to his revolutionary, minimal temperature treatment of musts, exceptional continuity in quality, whatever the vintage.
One of the most iconic Italian regions for wine, scenery and history, Tuscany is the world’s most important outpost for the Sangiovese grape. Ranging in style from fruity and simple to complex and age-worthy, as well as in price from budget-friendly to ultra-premium, Sangiovese makes up a significant percentage of plantings here, with the white Trebbiano Toscano coming in second.
Within Tuscany, many esteemed wines have their own respective sub-zones, including Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The climate is Mediterranean and the topography consists mostly of picturesque rolling hills, scattered with vineyards.
Sangiovese at its simplest produces straightforward pizza-friendly wines with bright red fruit and not much more, but at its best it shows remarkable complexity. Top-quality Sangiovese-based wines can be expressive of a range of characteristics such as sour cherry, balsamic, dried herbs, leather, fresh earth, dried flowers, anise and tobacco. Brunello expresses well the particularities of vintage variations and is thus popular among collectors who like to cellar the same wine over multiple years. Chianti is associated with tangy and food-friendly dry wines at various price points. A more recent phenomenon as of the 1970s is the “Super Tuscan”—a wine made from international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, with or without Sangiovese. These are common in Tuscany’s coastal regions like Bolgheri, Val di Cornia, Carmignano and the island of Elba.
Vernaccia's intricate history has roots in San Gimignano, whose main village’s quaint restaurants and steep pedestrian-only cobblestone streets make it as romantic—if not more—as any other Tuscan village. The idyllic countryside upon which this vine grows was actually named Italy’s first DOC in 1966. The 13th century marks its first written record and the grape was celebrated widely in literature, for example in poems by Dante and Franseco Redi.
Sapid with a mineral persistence, Vernaccia also offers up generous amounts of white peach and melon. It has lovely floral qualities, plenty of verve on the palate and often a fresh note of green almond. Vernaccia goes with so many dishes including cooked or raw fish, puff pastry appetizers and hard-to-pair vegetables like asparagus and artichoke.