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Recanati Upper Galilee Merlot 2011
Grapes for the Recanati Merlot are grown in vineyards set in the hills of Jerusalem and Northern Galilee, where the diverse soil composition, ranging from deep red alluvial loam to porous marl, lends the grapes an intensely fruity character.
Well matched with grilled red meats, poultry and flavorful pasta dishes, as well as a variety of Mediterranean-style entrees. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.
Owner of one of the finest private wine collections in Israel, L. Recanati is a successful international banker and a member of one of Israel's most prominent families. Prior to making their home in Israel in the early 1900s, Recanati's ancestors had lived for centuries in Italy, one of the world's premier sources of fine wines. Consequently, Italy and the U.S. (where Recanati spent a portion of his student years and met his American-born wife) represent the winery's first two export markets.
Chief winemaker at Recanati is Lewis Pasco, an American-born graduate of the U.C. Davis wine program and an accomplished chef. Formerly a winemaker at Napa Valley's Chimney Rock and for Sonoma's Marimar Torres, Lewis brings to Recanati a devotion to artistry and craftsmanship in winemaking. This dedication, combined with Recanati's state-of-the-art winemaking facility, has led to an impressive line of wines.
With a rich history of wine production dating back to biblical times, Israel is a part of the cradle of wine civilization. Here, wine was commonly used for religious ceremonies as well as for general consumption. During Roman times, it was a popular export, but during Islamic rule around 1300, production was virtually extinguished. The modern era of Israeli winemaking began in the late 19th century with help from Bordeaux’s Rothschild family. Accordingly, most grapes grown in Israel today are made from native French varieties. Indigenous varieties are all but extinct, though oenologists have made recent attempts to rediscover ancient varieties such as Marawi for commercial wine production.
In Israel’s Mediterranean climate, humidity and drought can be problematic, concentrating much of the country’s grape growing in the north near Galilee, Samaria near the coast and at higher elevations in the east. The most successful red varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, while the best whites are made from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Many, though by no means all, Israeli wines are certified Kosher.
An easy-going red variety with generous fruit and a supple texture, Merlot’s subtle tannins make it perfect for early drinking and allow it to pair with a wide range of foods. But the grape also has enough stuffing to make serious, world-renowned wines. One simply needs to look to Bordeaux to understand Merlot's status as a noble variety. On the region’s Right Bank, in St. Emilion and Pomerol, it dominates in blends with Cabernet Franc. On the Left Bank in the Medoc, it plays a supporting role to (and helps soften) Cabernet Sauvignon—in both cases resulting in some of the longest-lived and highest-quality wines in the world. They are often emulated elsewhere in Bordeaux-style blends, particularly in California’s Napa Valley, where Merlot also frequently shines on its own.
In the Glass
Merlot is known for its soft, silky texture and approachable flavors of ripe plum, red and black cherry and raspberry. In a cool climate, you may find earthier notes alongside dried herbs, tobacco and tar, while Merlot from warmer regions is generally more straightforward and fruit-focused.
Lamb with Merlot is an ideal match—the sweetness of the meat picks up on the sweet fruit flavors of the wine to create a harmonious balance. Merlot’s gentle tannins allow for a hint of spice and its medium weight and bright acidity permit the possibilities of simple pizza or pasta with red sauce—overall, an extremely versatile food wine.
Since the release of the 2004 film Sideways, Merlot's repuation has taken a big hit, and more than a decade later has yet to fully recover, though it is on its way. What many viewers didn't realize was that as much as Miles derided the variety, the prized wine of his collection—a 1961 Château Cheval Blanc—is made from a blend of Merlot with Cabernet Franc.