La Morandina Barbera d'Asti Varmat 2011
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The Morando brothers, who make less than 8,000 cases of Moscato d’Asti and work organically, are prized as much for their rarity as their quality. Giulio and Paolo Morando have 15 hectares of Moscato planted in the Bricco Francia cru, which is made up primarily of calcareous clay soils.
While they make about 1500 cases of red, mostly Barbera, in Barbaresco, their passion is Moscato. As Marco De Grazia recently described "the bouquet transcends Moscato with unique nuances of sage and mint." The estate is also passionate about sustainability and has been working organically for over 30 years.
Their vineyards have been something of a laboratory in the last couple decades as the brothers have worked closely with the University of Turin. Their uncle Albino has taught viticulture there for years and has carried out a number of experiments in Bricco Francia. His discoveries, along with those of Giulio and Paolo, have provided immense joy both for lovers of Moscato and sustainable farming.
Friendly and approachable, Barbera produces wines in a wide range of styles, from youthful, fresh and fruity to serious, structured and age-worthy. Piedmont is the most famous source of Barbera; those from Asti and Alba garner the most praise. Barbera actually can adapt to many climates and enjoys success in some New World regions. Somm Secret—In the past it wasn’t common or even accepted to age Barbera in oak but today both styles—oaked and unoaked—abound and in fact most Piedmontese producers today produce both styles.
Recognized as the source of the best Barbera in all of Italy, Asti is a province (as well as major city) in Piedmont, consisting of a gentle, rolling landscape with vineyards, farmland and forests alternating throughout.
Barbera d’Asti can be made in an array of styles from relatively straightforward, fruity and ready for consumption early, to the more concentrated, oak aged version with an ability to cellar impressively for 10-15 years and beyond. Some of the very best sites for Barbera in Asti are concentrated in the subzone of Nizza Monferrato. Other red varieties grown here include Freisa, Grignolino and Dolcetto, which can be bottled varietally or blended into Barbera.
Historically consumers commonly associated the Asti region with Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti, both playful, aromatic, sparkling wines made from the Muscat grape. Asti Spumante is less sweet, fully fizzy and more alcoholic (yet still clocking in at only around 9% alcohol) while Moscato d’Asti is sweeter, gently sparkling (“frizzante”) and closer to 5 or 6% alcohol. Each is produced in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fresh and fruity flavors of the grape, often including peach, apricot, lychee and rose petal. Asti is also the spot for the pink-hued Brachetto d'Acqui, a slightly sparkling wine ready to charm with its raspberry and rose flavors and aromas.