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J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Gold Capsule Auslese Riesling 2009

Riesling from Mosel, Germany
  • WS96
  • RP92
7.5% ABV
  • JS97
  • RP96
  • WS95
  • WE96
  • WS94
  • RP96
  • WS95
  • RP95
  • WS93
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7.5% ABV

Winemaker Notes

The wines of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr possess an excellent structure, show beautiful, ripe aromas and flavours (typically stone fruits, like peach), a fine minerality and great depth and length. Especially after having been aged for some years, their harmony, finesse and expression is unique.

The grapes of this Auslese gold cap are selected during harvest and contain a certain amount of botrytis, resulting in a higher concentration of the grape juice. It is a "limited edition" and shows itself silky, harmonious and refined, with apricot, apple, lime and mineral aromas and flavours on a light-weight frame. Balanced, its hidden structure is evident in the tanginess on the finish and lingering aftertaste of baked apple.

Critical Acclaim

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WS 96
Wine Spectator
Explosively fruity, rich and opulent, with loads of baked peach, apricot and pear flavors that are overlaid with concentrated notes of apple butter and spice. The long finish is filled with toffee and cream. Best from 2014 through 2038.
RP 92
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The Prums' 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule A.P. # 23 auction lot is scented with singed pineapple, butterscotch, apple jelly, honey, and a radish-like prickle, all of which pour themselves onto a creamy yet subtly nippy palate of imposing richness, if for now neither the elegance nor sheer buoyancy that accrued to some of the other best wines in the present collection. The torrified, butterscotch element dominates at least for now in an overtly sweet, strikingly long finish, but one lacking in primary juiciness or vivacity. Could this simply need more time to recover from bottling? 92+ Points
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J.J. Prum

JJ Prum

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JJ Prum, Mosel, Germany
Image of winery
For centuries the Prüm family has called the village of Wehlen home. The 33.5 acre estate consists of nearly 70% ungrafted vines. Holdings are in the best parts of the top Middle-Mosel sites: Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube, and Bernkasteler Bratenhöfchen. Average annual production is 13,000 cases. The harvest at J.J. Prüm is always extremely late, and the wines are very long-lived.

Home to some of the world’s finest and longest-lived sweet and dry white wines, the Mosel is a region of Germany formerly known as Mosel-Saar-Ruwer—named thusly for the three rivers that flow through its dramatic valleys. Geology, climate and topography are paramount here, and the wines produced communicate a distinct sense of place. In addition to being prized for their heat-retaining properties, slate-based soils lend a stony minerality to the wines, contributing to some of the most recognizable terroir in the world. Cool temperatures necessitate the use of the region’s rivers to reflect heat onto the vineyards, and the best wines are made from sites with south or southwest facing slopes to receive sufficient direct sunlight for ripening. The breathtakingly steep slopes that straddle the river banks cannot be worked by machine, contributing to a high cost of labor (and treacherous working conditions).

Riesling is by far the most important and prestigious grape of the Mosel, grown on approximately 60% of the region’s vineyard land—typically the sites that provide the best combination of sunlight, soil type, and altitude. These wines, dry or sweet, are distinguished by marked acidity, low alcohol, and intense flavors of wet stone, citrus, and stone fruit. With age, a pleasing aroma of petroleum often develops. The lesser plots are mainly planted with lower-maintenance but relatively neutral varieties like Müller-Thurgau and other German crosses, but Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) can perform quite well here.

Riesling

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A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining easily identifiable typicity. This versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling, and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Riesling is best known in Germany and Alsace, and is also of great importance in Austria. The variety has also been particularly successful in Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys, New Zealand, Oregon, Washington, cooler regions of California, and the Finger Lakes in New York.

In the Glass

Riesling is low in alcohol, with high acidity, steely minerality, and stone fruit, spice, citrus, and floral notes. At its ripest it leans towards juicy peach and nectarine, and pineapple, while in cooler climes it is more redolent of meyer lemon, lime, and green apple. With age, Riesling can become truly revelatory, developing unique, complex aromatics, often with a hint of gasoline.

Perfect Pairings

Riesling is very versatile, enjoying the company of sweet-fleshed fish like sole, most Asian food, especially Thai and Vietnamese (bottlings with some residual sugar and low alcohol are the perfect companions for dishes with substantial spice), and freshly shucked oysters. Sweeter styles work well with fruit-based desserts.

Sommelier Secret

It can be difficult to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling, and German labeling laws do not make things any easier. Look for the world “trocken” to indicate a dry wine, or “halbtrocken” or “feinherb” for off-dry. Some producers will include a helpful sweetness scale on the back label—happily, a growing trend.

LIM201470750_2009 Item# 111275