Gilbert Chon Muscadet Clos de la Chapelle Vieilles Vignes 2009
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Gilbert Chon's 2009 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Clos de la Chapelle Vieilles Vignes – as has been the case with previous bottlings from him – somewhat suggests Riesling in its evocations of peach, black currant, iris, and lime, which extend not only to a perfumed nose but also to a palate that marries density with levity and delivers a scintillating interplay of fruit, salinity, and seemingly crystalline mineral notes in its long, succulent finish. Intriguing suggestions of shrimp shell reduction, iodine, and meat stock emerge with air. This terrific value is a must-try Muscadet even for someone who doesn’t generally find that the genre hits his or her sweet spot. It should be mouthwatering to follow for at least the next couple of years. (Incidentally, Chon is among the few Loire growers to employ screwcap closure – or at least, for the exported portion of his portfolio.)
Made famous in Muscadet, a gently rolling, Atlantic-dominated countryside on the eastern edge of the Loire, Melon de Bourgogne is actually the most planted grape variety in the Loire Valley. But the best comes from Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, a subzone of Pays Nantais. Somm Secret—The wine called Muscadet may sound suggestive of “muscat,” but Melon de Bourgogne is not related. Its name also suggests origins in Burgundy, which it has, but was continuously outlawed there, like Gamay, during the 16th and 17th centuries.
Praised for its stately Renaissance-era chateaux, the picturesque Loire valley produces pleasant wines of just about every style. Just south of Paris, the appellation lies along the river of the same name and stretches from the Atlantic coast to the center of France.
The Loire can be divided into three main growing areas, from west to east: the Lower Loire, Middle Loire, and Upper/Central Loire. The Pay Nantais region of the Lower Loire—farthest west and closest to the Atlantic—has a maritime climate and focuses on the Melon de Bourgogne variety, which makes refreshing, crisp, aromatic whites.
The Middle Loire contains Anjou, Saumur and Touraine. In Anjou, Chenin Blanc produces some of, if not the most, outstanding dry and sweet wines with a sleek, mineral edge and characteristics of crisp apple, pear and honeysuckle. Cabernet Franc dominates red and rosé production here, supported often by Grolleau and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sparkling Crémant de Loire is a specialty of Saumur. Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc are common in Touraine as well, along with Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay and Malbec (known locally as Côt).
The Upper Loire, with a warm, continental climate, is Sauvignon Blanc country, home to the world-renowned appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Pinot Noir and Gamay produce bright, easy-drinking red wines here.