Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta di Novello Anas-Cetta 2019
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2019 Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello Anas-Cetta is fresh with rosemary, white flowers, and chalky earth. It is much more linear and driving in its persistence throughout, with saline and a bit more acidity without moving into austerity. It drives through the palate with citrus pith and melon rind. Drink over the next 15 years. Rating : 93+
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
A wine that always turns heads, the Elvio Cogno 2019 Langhe Nascetta del Comune di Novello Anas-Cëtta is a mid-weight, glycerin-rich white made from an indigenous grape that is rare and dear to the region of Langa. There are aspects of this wine that remind me of the Arneis grape (another local favorite). The wine's smooth and creamy mouthfeel is one element shared between the two. So are those aromas of honey, white peach, pear and acacia flower. Aged in both stainless steel and botte grande, this wine has the textural richness to pair with white meat and even a few red meat dishes. An ample 15,000 bottles were made.
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Wine Enthusiast
This full, rounded white opens with aromas of bread crust, chamomile, aromatic herb and citrus. Reflecting the nose, the rounded palate features grapefruit, honey and hazelnut before a tangy finish suggesting saline and sage. Enjoy now or hold for more complexity.
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James Suckling
Aromas of white peaches, dried flowers and hot stones follow through to a medium body, creamy texture and a fruity finish. Dry at the end. Fun for this grape type. Nicely done. Drink now.
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The Cogno family has been making wine for four generations in Piedmont. In 1990, Elvio Cogno left a long and fruitful partnership with the venerable Barolo producer Marcarini at La Morra and bought a splendid, historic 18th-century farmhouse on the top of Bricco Ravera, a hill near Novello in the Langhe area. (Novello is one of the 11 communes in which Barolo is produced.) The farm was surrounded by 11 hectares (27.18 acres) of steeply sloped vineyards. Elvio restored the manor, converted the old granaries to wine cellars and founded his eponymous winery. For the next 20 years he devoted himself to the winemaking traditions handed down to him by his father and grandfather.
Elvio, in turn, has now passed the torch to his daughter, Nadia, and her husband, Valter Fissore, who has worked beside Elvio for 25 years. Following in the footsteps of Elvio the maestro, Elvio Cogno winery continues to produce elegant wines without altering the traditions, styles and flavors of the Langhe, with its breathtaking quilted landscape and unique grape varieties.
The Elvio Cogno winery sits at the top of Bricco Ravera, a hill near Novello in the Langhe area of Piedmont, one of the 11 communes in which Barolo is produced. Ravera is the finest cru of Novello, encircling the top of the hill and the winery, reaching a 380-meter (1,246-foot) elevation, with breathtaking views in all directions.
There are hundreds of white grape varieties grown throughout the world. Some are indigenous specialties capable of producing excellent single varietal wines. Each has its own distinct viticultural characteristics, as well as aroma and flavor profiles.
Set upon a backdrop of the visually stunning Alps, the enchanting and rolling hills of Piedmont are the source of some of the country’s longest-lived and most sought-after red wines. Vineyards cover a great majority of the land area—especially in Barolo—with the most prized sites at the top hilltops or on south-facing slopes where sunlight exposure is maximized. Piedmont has a continental climate with hot, humid summers leading to cold winters and precipitation year-round. The reliable autumnal fog provides a cooling effect, especially beneficial for Nebbiolo, Piedmont’s most prestigious variety.
In fact, Nebbiolo is named exactly for the arrival of this pre-harvest fog (called “nebbia” in Italian), which prolongs cluster hang time and allows full phenolic balance and ripeness. Harvest of Nebbiolo is last among Piedmont's wine varieties, occurring sometime in October. This grape is responsible for the exalted Piedmont wines of Barbaresco and Barolo, known for their ageability, firm tannins and hallmark aromas of tar and roses. Nebbiolo wines, despite their pale hue, pack a pleasing punch of flavor and structure; the best examples can require about a decade’s wait before they become approachable. Barbaresco tends to be more elegant in style while Barolo is more powerful. Across the Tanaro River, the Roero region, and farther north, the regions of Gattinara and Ghemme, also produce excellent quality Nebbiolo.
Easy-going Barbera is the most planted grape in Piedmont, beloved for its trademark high acidity, low tannin and juicy red fruit. Dolcetto, Piedmont’s other important red grape, is usually ready within a couple of years of release.
White wines, while less ubiquitous here, should not be missed. Key Piedmont wine varieties include Arneis, Cortese, Timorasso, Erbaluce and the sweet, charming Muscat, responsible for the brilliantly recognizable, Moscato d'Asti.