Donnhoff Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2019
The “Höllenpfad” (“Path to Hell”) name is an old one, likely referencing both the vineyard‘s steep slope as well as the unique color of the red sandstone. Grapes grown here tend to be very small with intense, nuanced aromas; the resulting wines are elegant with a spicy mineral fruit and excellent aging potential.
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
The mystery of ancient herbs takes this concentrated and racy dry riesling up to another level. Old-vine concentration, but also the almost supernatural brightness and austerity of high-altitude, windy sites. Seemingly endless minerality at the finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification.
Tasted as a sample in April 2020, months before the bottling, the Roxheim 2019 Riesling GG Höllenpfad Im Mühlenberg opens very pure, elegant and coolish on the flinty, refined, very well articulated and precise nose. Full-bodied yet super fine, crystalline and salty on the palate, this is a linear, piquant and elegant yet tensioned Höllenpfad with very good length, intensity and complexity. Highly promising.
Barrel Sample: 94
The grandchild of the estate‘s founder, Helmut Dönnhoff, paved the way for international success by establishing an enduring quality and style in his wines. His vintages would in fact become a byword for renowned German Rieslings the world over. Following his training at his parents‘ estate and university studies in winegrowing, he assumed responsibility for both vineyard and cellar starting in 1971. “Extraordinary wines are based on extraordinary vineyards. I‘m fortunate to have had the opportunity to acquire several world-class sites and in some cases to resume cultivation. It remains very much a privilege for me to produce wine from vineyards of such exceptional quality. It‘s more than I ever could have dreamed when I first started working.” This deep understanding of grand wines and grand vineyards was passed on from father to son to grandson.
The fourth generation now holds the reins: Cornelius Dönnhoff. He began his training in 1999 and, after a series of positions abroad, in 2007 returned to assume responsibility for the estate – initially for the vineyard and cellar, and now for all aspects of the operation. History continues, but the estate remains what it has always been: a family affair in every sense.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.