Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles Premier Cru 2014
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, Chevillon's 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru les Cailles feels a little diffuse on the nose at first. Those scents of raspberry, bergamot and pomegranate feel rather disparate, as if they need to be lassoed together. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin: the fruit a little darker and the texture grainier than expected. The winemaking comes through a little more strongly than I expected here, and the finish feels a little gruff at the moment. I am sure that bottle age will ultimately smooth over the rough edges here, so just be patient. Tasted September 2017.
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The Domaine was started by Symphonien Chevillon in the late 19th century with a small plot (3/4 acres) which he farmed after finishing his daily work for other vignerons. Symphonien's son took over the Domaine upon his father's death and began to acquire small parcels of Nuits St. Georges premier cru. The Domaine is now 31 acres and is managed by Robert Chevillon, great great nephew of Symphonien.
Domaine Chevillon is often said to be the greatest Domaine in Nuits Saint Georges. With a focused core of Pinot fruit, the wines are always balanced, never over-oaked or over-chapitalized. Chevillon's Burgundies cellar well, but in their youth they show elegant berry and earth perfume, and are best paired with game dishes, roasted birds such as quail and duck, and strong aromatic cheeses.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Inhabiting the bottom end of the northern half of the Côte d’Or, Nuits-St-Georges is a busy, market-driven town and home to many of Burgundy’s negociants. It is also the largest town in the Côte d’Or after Beaune and contributes "nuits" to the name of Côte de Nuits (i.e., the northern half of the Côte d’Or).
The appellation itself is divided into two parts, where in the north it directly borders Vosne-Romanée, the southerly end is the commune of Prémeaux. There are no Grands Crus in this village, though it does have a large number of Premiers Crus.
The best Nuits-St-Georges Pinot Noir are layered with cherry, plum, underbrush and sandalwood. The fruit is sweet, the wine energetic, and the finish long and lush.